Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
23-03-2021, 08:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 23-03-2021, 08:34 PM by Bob Culver.)
Over the decades, working always with hard aged tyres, I have always found it a battle. Whereas recent new tyres fell on like bicycle tyres.
Obviously the free bead and as much as possible of the bead being worked must lie in the bottom of the well. Once there and under tension will stay there but maintaining tension single handed is tricky. Several large G clamps or simillr can be applied to squeeze the tyre wall to wall and bring to beads closer together so dont keep rising out of the well..
Many advocate doing in the hot sunshine.
For years I used rubber grease but found it causes any patches to eventually lift. Sadly with obstinate tyres it is impossible to avoid paint damage to the rims. Sitting the wheel on a modern tyre lifts it off the floor and can be helpful. Avoid standing on the spokes.
Some years ago I visited a tyre firm and the fitter was grappling with an Austin type tyre. He seemd to be having even more difficulty than I experience.
Incidentally, in my late 70s, I still do tyre work on my "moderns" and always have. (I use an old VW jack against a concrete lintel to break beads free)
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 923 Threads: 52
Reputation:
5
Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
John P, I think you need practice. I now change 17" fairly easily. Start with a carpet on the garage floor where you are working. And 2 lengths of 4 x 4 timber maybe 3 foot long. That allows you to put the tyre on and off from the inner side of the wheel, by resting the wheel on the 2 baulks of timber on the floor.
I followed instructions on this forum and after a few tries it's easy. Always use G-cramps to hold the tyre edges together so they stay in the well. Don't even try to stretch the tyre, with the tyre in the well at one side, it will fit over the rim at the other side.
To remove, loosen the tyre away from the rim all round and on both sides. Fit 2 or 3 G-cramps and gently pull the bead over the rim with one or 2 tyre levers. Don't force it.
To fit a tyre, start by putting the levers away, they'll just nip the inner-tubes. Again, consider using G-cramps, then just feed the tyre round, using your hands, boots, or a hammer. I like to use a 14" length of 2 x 2 timber and a 20 oz hammer. Just like using a rubber mallett, but somehow works better. A heavy hammer and gentle taps work well.
And maybe your wide rim tapes are a problem.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,481 Threads: 17
Reputation:
12
Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
About six months ago, I replaced the Mitas 3.50 X 19 tyres on my RP with a set of new Avon Triple Duty sidecar tyres. I thought that i would have difficulty, but didn't find the job too bad. As Hedd says, provided that you keep the bead well into the well of the rim, the tyres should go on reasonably easily. And, yes, I do use tyre levers, but very carefully. Inflating the tube just sufficiently to make it take its shape also helps in cutting down the chances of pinching it. Also, plus one for starting and finishing at the valve.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,920 Threads: 90
Reputation:
17
Location: Ripon
If you warm the tyres first you should be able to walk them on wearing stout boots. ALWAYS start and finish at the valve. If necessary use a rubber mallet to finish the last bit but if they are still warm your heels should do the trick.
The wheels on my Pembleton do not come off easily and I have removed tubes and replaced them at the roadside without too much difficulty. They are warm when you start (having had a puncture) so you have to work fairly quickly.
The most difficult part is introducing the valve stem. There is a lot of useful information on the previous thread from last year.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
Reputation:
6
Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
I've found Longstones, Blockley and Mitas as easy to fit as bike tyres. They are so supple. Avons are however really stiff and harder.
Keep the tyre in the airing cupboard so its warm and supple.
Other advice Make sure the bead opposite where your levers are is in the well.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 858 Threads: 47
Reputation:
4
Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1926 Top Hat 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
Just for exercise, try changing over the tyres on two cars - all 5 of them. That's five off, another 5 off, 5 on and then another 5 on. Do it in an afternoon.
I'm not sure I could do that today but used to regularly do it a few years ago, usually when selling a car and wanting the best tyres on one I was keeping!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,247 Threads: 360
Reputation:
16
Car type:
for threading/pulling the valve stem through, last night I adapted a kids BMX alloy valve cap, drilling it through and adding 12" of wire with a knot behind to hold it in.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 172 Threads: 65
Reputation:
0
Right, I'm persuaded to have another go but think I'll get a couple of new and longer tyre levers plus some proper tyre lubricant before I start.
The tyre levers I have are very strong but also quite thick which means they tend to get trapped between the bead and the rim and are then very difficult to remove.
On line there seem to be the plain, double ended levers rather like the Heyco ones suggested on here (unfortunately out of stock at Amazon) and also what appear to be called "Spoon" ended ones which are single ended and sold primarily for motor bikes.
Any comments on which would be the best to get?
John.
