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steering box wedge, drop arm clearance
#1
I'm just starting work on a little 2 seater special and I have a potential problem (and fix) with the steering - just interested in your opinions.
The car is using a wedge under the steering box to get the column to the desired angle.  It seems well enough designed and all seems rigid and strong - the wedge is a steel fabrication and extends down the side of the chassis rail to incorporate the boss that supports the brake pedal as it goes through the chassis.  This means (I think) that the brake pedal pivot bolt/boss is lower relative to the steering box drop arm than it would normally be in a standard car.  In practice this means when the drag link is attached to the steering drop arm, there is a clearance issue - the end of the drag link catches on the brake pivot bolt.  It can go past but it catches and obviously that's not acceptable.  I've been thinking of a few "fixes" and the easiest and most obvious one appears to be to reverse the ball joint on the bottom of the drop arm so that the drag link sits outside the drop arm, rather than between the drop arm and the steering box (and brake pivot).  I've checked clearances and the drag link doesn't look like it will catch on anything throughout the full movement of the steering.  Is there a good reason why I shouldn't try this and is anyone already doing it this way?  This is the drop arm/drag link/wedge area I'm talking about:
   
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#2
The difficulty with reversing the ball is that it’s on a taper so can only go one way.
You could reverse the drag link by using a rod end , you would need to turn a tapered bush to go in the drop arm so that your rod end bolt is going through a parallel hole, not a tapered hole.
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#3
There is a casting available which has a lower angle for the column. IMHO this is preferable to using a wedge which can also affect the brake pedal spindle position.
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#4
I didn't realise the ball was on a taper - that makes it a bit more difficult.
In this case the brake spindle position is as original, but I'd agree the wedge isn't perfect.

I should have it all out on the bench today so I'll see what direction that leads me in..
Thanks
Steve
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#5
I have a similar set-up.

The items, though close, do not touch.   I have never had to think about it.

I cannot remember if I have changed steering boxes.

If not, maybe a previous owner bent the drop arm a little?  

I don't think there is much interference, any small change might do.

Is there zero endfloat on the drop arm?

I know it may be a daft idea, but would a slightly thicker gasket - with a bit more packing under the end-float button - move the ball out a bit?

My car isn't handy for me to take a look, I could do so later, if you like.

I have never found the position of the barake pedal a problem, either.

I think it makes "heel and toe" operation easier.
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#6
I think I've solved it. There was very little interference, but it could be felt through the steering wheel, so I heated and bent the drop arm. It only moved 1 or 2 mm but it was enough and now there is clearance and all feels good!
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#7
Reported
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#8
Cheeky monkey! They get in everywhere!
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