Joined: Aug 2020 Posts: 42 Threads: 14
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Location: Hove
Car type: A7 Specials, 1927 & 1934
I know I really ought to take the side branch off & poke out between the bores - I'm still not totally sure that the flow restriction is the radiator, it could be the block, but every time I take the side branch off an engine that new to me I have to drill out & re-tap the studs which is a painful & fiddly job. This side branch looks awful, but it is (currently) watertight....
It looks like it's worth a go then - I think I'll take the rad off so I can agitate it. I may also try and get hold of some bulk Sodium Bicarb to neutralise the brick cleaner.
I do live in a hard water area, so depending on the holes, I may try that, or I may look at touching up with a soldering iron or small torch - or is that a recipe for disaster?
Joined: Aug 2020 Posts: 42 Threads: 14
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Location: Hove
Car type: A7 Specials, 1927 & 1934
I like it....
I've got to remove the cowl to get the rad out.
What bits of plumbing did you use to create the tank?
how do you then encourage agitation, or is there just a much higher flow rate without the resistance caused by the radiator?
Did you use any chemicals in there? (that would scare me somewhat..)
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 264 Threads: 17
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Location: Deepest Norfolk
Scare you maybe - but it wont half clear your sinuses! Good luck....
Rick
In deepest Norfolk
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,435 Threads: 59
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Plastic cold water tank from Wickes
Tank connectors attached to rubber pipes that run to block and head.
Filled with water and Fernox DS3
Start engine and run until hot, letting thermosyphon do the work for you.
Crud is caught at the bottom of the tank
C
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
[quote pid='61838' dateline='1613132449']
Hedd, would the dilute brick acid just be taking away barsleak type and egg white substances, or do you think it will be taking away some structural radiator?! i.e. could one re-implement the bunger-uppers afterward and hope it might re-seal?
[/quote]
Unless it has inhibitors it will take away good metal, but slowly.
In my other hobby I build pressure vessels out of gurt thick bits of steel, drill loads of holes in them, then rivet together. Initial fill results in lots of leaks. The pee in it, and leave to fester approach fixes many of them. The expansive force of the corrosion products does the sealing.
Put descaler in them and they leak!
Joined: Aug 2020 Posts: 42 Threads: 14
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Location: Hove
Car type: A7 Specials, 1927 & 1934
Fernox DS3 seems less scary than Hydro Chloric acid - maybe I should use that for the radiator?
Does the HCl work better? (bet it does)
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,246 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Removing the side water branch may reveal that the blockage is in the block and not the radiator. However, proceed with caution! After draining the block, see if you can squirt some plus-gas into the side branch to help with bolt removal. Leave overnight if you can. It may pay dividends. Best of Luck!
Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 36 Threads: 0
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Location: Nottinghamshire
Car type: 1929 AD Tourer
What about back-flushing the engine with a garden hose (with radiator disconnected)? It might give an idea how well water flows through it. If a load of crud comes out, and it flows well after that, you might avoid having to remove the side water branch? Just a thought, especially if you are worried about the condition of the studs etc.
