Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
aluminium finish on body
#1
Is there a best way to remove cellulose paint from an aluminium body without damaging the aluminium also for the people that run a seven with  an aluminium body ,how do you look after the aluminium ? wax ? polish ? oil ?

Thanks Paul
Reply
#2
Most I imagine would suggest old stock Nitromors paint remover using a wood scraper made from a kitchen spatula to save damaging the ally.

The risk is how much damage and filler you run into along the way, which is why I would carefully take the paint back with a DA sander...a long, dusty and laborious job, particularly around any swage lines and mouldings.

I bet you ten bob that half way through the job you’ll say “sod it, let’s paint it!”

Good luck!
Reply
#3
If and when you get the paint off you can use any number of metal polishes. My preference is always to go for Autoglym Metal Polish. If I feel particularly energetic I sometimes follow it up with a coat of Autoglym Resin Polish but I have yet to convince myself that it maintains the finish for any longer period of time than without.


.jpg   _DSC2334-2.jpg (Size: 482.54 KB / Downloads: 355)
Reply
#4
Hi Paul,

Back in the sixties ( yes, I know I shouldn’t be able to remember) I ran a Cambridge special with unpainted aluminum body. I used Solvol Autosol out of a tube. I gave it a polish every few months as it seemed like sweeping autumn leaves to do more often. It came off black on the cloth so obviously contained a mildly abrasive element to remove the oxide. Did look good but after a couple of weeks went back to informal.
So once you’ve got the paint off and havnt discovered too much filler you have a choice — if you want to keep it in plain ally perhaps using a good wax based polish would help keep the shine.

Charles, in snowy Norfolk

Just seen the post and noticed “ going back to informal” ( ie normal ) These predictive text gadgets are just too clever!
Reply
#5
I used a block of aluminium with a sharpened edge to the 90 degree edge - probably about 7 or 8mm thick.
This had enough heft to act as a heavy scraper, (almost like a snow plough) leaving the surface perfect. You have to keep sharpening the block edge though.
Reply
#6
You can still get decent paint stripper, but you might need to go to a refinishing supply shop to get it, as effective strippers are "for professional use only" Starchem SynStryp is the one I've used recently.

I've tried a lot metal polishes, I've been using Brasso on my special for the last 40 years or so. The thing I've found with all of the abrasive type polishes is that rubbing the just polished Ali over with a soft cloth soaked in Meths or Cellulose thinner will collect a load of black gunge which will reveal a brighter shine once the bodywork is rubbed over again with a soft clean dry cloth.

[Image: 30116567183_1520e67c4d_z.jpg]
Reply
#7
maybe spend more time in driving your car than polishing...
I just removed all paint and enjoyed the vintage ali panels

   
Reply
#8
Perish the thought of too much polishing! Twice a year if it is lucky. And usually it looks more like this -


.jpg   mud.jpg (Size: 301.99 KB / Downloads: 243)
Reply
#9
Personally, I have never been keen on polished alloy, I have always preferred the "patinated" look.

As far as decent paint stripper is concerned, its easy to get hold of, I use this off ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARAMOSE-PAIN...XQ3kRQ7Tys

You do have to swear that you are a professional though.
Reply
#10
Do be sure to avoid anything with caustic soda which will attack the surface of the ali. Give a scratch finish with dark grey coarse Scotchbrite and finish with light grey fine Scotchbrite.
Twice a year I wash and dry and then final do with light grey Scotchbrite. Spray with SAS maintenance fluid and wipe down with dry paper towel pads.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)