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Raglan Little John lathe?
#31
They certainly do rust. A German-made Liebert & Gurtler. Even after such neglect, it was still restored to effective working order.


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#32
Simon ,the best tip I was given,by an ex Myford engineer and model engineer was to make up a handwheel to fit in the back end of the spindle, (With internal split bush to grip same) and screw cut by hand.It's not a bad as it sounds ,you  have perfect control on what you're doing,just a little tiring. I still do this for certain jobs. (ie threading up to an awkward shoulder.)
I can't get my "Quote" to work !
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#33
Quote doesn't work for me either. 

No shame in screwcutting by slow and methodical means. 
I had an Ainjest on one lathe, an attachment that allows for screwcutting at "normal" speeds. Bloody terrifying to use, especially as an amateur shed-based machinist.
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#34
Hand screw cutting on a Myford.
Another tip for budding screwcutters,Rather than using either hand ground single point tools or these modern form throw away tip tools now popular is to get some old coventry thread chasers,usually they are in sets of 4 as in a Coventry die head,odd ones or sets missing some are ideal for our use.Make a holder to fit the toolpost and off you go Popular pitches needed for us would be 16,20 and 22 tpi.


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#35
A hand crank on the feedscrew useful for cutting oil spirals. Maybe able to fit an interchangeable handle to selected gearwheels. Fine split die halves a less tedious way of cutting synchro grooves, although a fine square tool and patience better.
The rusty lathe interesting. Once removed does anyone ever refit the gap?. My Indian lathe bought new about 1970 had been stored in its box presumably outdoors and arrived many months after ordering almost in that condition!! Termites had got into the box and there was 2mm of frass in the case. So poorly made they had even manged to leave a letter out of the name casting. Eventually coaxed to rebore cyl liners.
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#36
Hi Bob, so far it's mainly been 1/2 BSF threads (16tpi from memory). The Riley uses a special threaded stud at the rear gearbox mount and at the rear of the chassis are two large pins that insert into the rear cross tube that have a smaller shaft and 1/2 thread on the end. That is for the rear spring shackle mounts.

The Riley since it has a torque tube and an axle that rotates in block on the springs needs a shackle either end of the spring. The lathe has been invaluable for things like spacers too. The front springs were re-built and came with new (imperial but not Whitworth) U bolts. The thread on them wasn't long enough. I have a die to extend them but then the other leg of the bolt stops you turning the die with a handle. Instead of a stack of washers 1/2 inch thick I machined up spacers from some HT steel bar. Very simple job of course but having a lathe means you can do little things like that easily and it works well and looks good.

I've also turned up replacement bushes for things and need to turn up new drive shaft U-Bolt bushes still. I also turned up some odd shaped nuts that are part of the handbrake mechanism. They were Whitworth form thread but an non standard size. I think it was 7/8 by 12 tpi? Definitely something I had to make.

I usually put up bad YouTube films about all these little things these days. Easier than taking photos and blogging.

I keep most of my tools covered in dust cloths when not being used. Old towels and sheets are good. Especially if there is any chance of grinding or saw dust going on anything.

Simon
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#37
Not wishing to appear pedantic but I had it hammered into me at an early age in Davy & United's apprentice training school that you NEVER, ever, leave the chuck key in the lathe chuck. Same would apply to the crank handle in the other end, it ought to be spring loaded so it drops out of mesh when not in use, even though the power might be off and the drive de-clutched. You just never know.
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#38
Quote never works for me either.

I do thread cut at a slow speed but yes, a hand wheel on the spindle is a great idea. I'll see what I can do there. This Old Tony recently did a film showing how to use a tap as a tool to cut internal threads in the same way you show with the Coventry dies. I do have a tin of those floating about somewhere with no holder so that's another great idea.

In a metal work night class I did once someone who should have known better did leave the key in the chuck and turned the lathe on. The chuck flew clean across the room and narrowly missed my head! I always work by the rule of never take my hand off the key while it's in the chuck.

That rusty lathe would come up great in a molasses bath I imagine. I just had to empty my molasses drum after a few years of use. It's good fertiliser they say so I tipped it out over the lawn.

I forgot about the smell....

I don't think my neighbours will forget for a while. Lucky I'm moving!

Simon
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#39
Reckless Rat beat me to it. Never, ever, leave a chuck key in a chuck. Some other essential matters to consider: http://www.lathes.co.uk/page13.html
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#40
One of the lads left a chuck key in the lathe he was using when I was an apprentice. When he started the lathe, it flew off, broke a window and was caught by a wire fence, which was lucky as it could have flown out into the traffic on the A4 Bath - Chippenham.

I'm always careful after that.....
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