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Austinsevenfriends › Austin Seven Friends Forum › Forum chat... v
Engine rebuild

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Engine rebuild
philip burrow Offline
Junior Member
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Joined: Oct 2020 Posts: 2 Threads: 1
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Location: Devon
Car type: Ruby 1938
#1
02-10-2020, 10:18 PM
Can anyone help a first time A/7 rebuilder ? silly question ,but which way round does the dished oil thrower go next to  the rear bearing ??  many thanks.
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Ian Williams Offline
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Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,666 Threads: 46
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
#2
03-10-2020, 12:28 AM
Facing outwards Philip, I hope that makes sense.
Black Art Enthusiast
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Tony Press Offline
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Location: Malvern, Victoria, Australia
#3
03-10-2020, 04:57 AM
(02-10-2020, 10:18 PM)philip burrow Wrote: Can anyone help a first time A/7 rebuilder ? silly question ,but which way round does the dished oil thrower go next to  the rear bearing ??  many thanks.

Think about it- if the inner of the dished thrower is clamped to the rotating inner ring of the bearing then the outer diameter of the dished thrower must face away from the stationary outer ring.
http://austin7club.org
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Zetomagneto Offline
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#4
03-10-2020, 08:45 AM
Throw it away and use a lip seal conversion, only about £20 from one our cherished suppliers.
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Bob Culver Offline
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Location: Auckland, NZ
#5
03-10-2020, 09:01 AM
A great virtue of Sevens and older cars is that they are not loaded with time limited components as moderns. (seals, plastic bits, rubber bushes, hydraulic cups, electronics etc.) Some lip seals survive forever, many go very hard. The slinger works very adequately unless wading.it is imperative the flywheel does not fully compress the wavy slinger and abut the bearing.
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Terrytuned Offline
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Location: Bristol
#6
03-10-2020, 10:48 AM
Use the oil thrower make sure it is nipped by the flywheel and fit a Viton lip seal (red/brown colour) as these don't go hard over time as the Nitrile seals (black) seem to. I keep the thrower as the seals work better if they don't have lots of oil thrown at them. Terry.
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philip burrow Offline
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Joined: Oct 2020 Posts: 2 Threads: 1
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Location: Devon
Car type: Ruby 1938
#7
03-10-2020, 12:20 PM
Thanks for all the advice. Great help !!
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David Stepney Offline
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Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,481 Threads: 17
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
#8
03-10-2020, 12:33 PM
For what little weight my opinion has, I have kept the rear crank oil retention arrangements on my own engine to the way that Austin's did it, with just the oil thrower. Having just overhauled the engine with new pistons and paid scrupulous attention to making sure that the gaskets have been fitted using a good proprietary silicon sealer, the engine now uses virtually no oil and the clutch pit has remained (comparatively) dry.

I suspect that, for touring engines, the original arrangements work just fine. Tuned competition engines are probably another matter altogether.
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