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Ricardo Head gasket
#1
Hi All

After only about 50 miles or so the head gasket on the Brookfields is showing signs of failing.  This manifests itself in oil blowing up through the threads on the central head stud.  I’ve read another thread which suggested removing the head stud sealing the washer and threads, torque back up and hftb (hope for the best). Which I have now done. I have a brand new Ricardo head and the block had a light skim before assembly. I used a light smear of grease on both surfaces of a HC gasket before torquing down to 20 ftlb.  

The engine is running well, ticking over very evenly at quite low revs so I’m in no hurry to take head off yet BUT.... I think I should get a spare gasket for when I do decide to investigate further.

Question what head gasket do people use for a Ricardo head?  David Cochrane sells specific Ricardo gaskets but is out of stock.  When I built the engine several sources recommended a standard HC gasket but I’d like a wider view if possible?

Cheers

Howard
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#2
The Ricardo gaskets that David sells are identical in pattern to a normal LC gasket but thinner. So, if not available, a standard LC gasket is a good substitute. I've had no issues with the Ricardo gaskets but I always fit with a smear of copper silicone to be on the safe side. If you've oil showing on the center stud, check its torque. You might find that the stud's pulling out of the block because of a poor thread. Exactly what happened on my new Ulster engine back in February.

Steve
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#3
I have used both gaskets,early and late. Personally prefer to use the late one.
The centre stud is a bit of a worry as this is where the block can crack in 3 directions,to the water hole and 2 -3 cylinders especially on a linered block.
In saying that I used a block like that until while the engine was stored dry it got frost damaged at the front corner ??
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#4
As Steve Jones suggests - Copper silicone is wickedly good stuff for heads.
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#5
I always seal the head studs with Locktite (lock and seal) and use copper silicone on the gasket as Steve recommends. Check any alloy head before fitting as they can warp slightly even new ones. Terry.
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#6
How about, before fitting, the old trick of putting the head in the freezer overnight?
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#7
Thanks All

I hope it isn’t a cracked block Angry.  Given that the engine ticks over nicely I don’t think so.

All the studs torque up nicely to 27 Nm. (which is easier to read than 252 inlb on my wrench).

I’ve ordered a LC gasket and some copper silicon.  So I may have a “head off“ day before too long!

Cheers

Howard
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#8
Howard, did you re-torque the head nuts after initial running?
If not that's the first thing I'd attend to.
Do it stone cold and follow correct tightening sequence.
27Nm is fine.
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#9
Hi Chris

Yes I’ve checked the torque several times.  I was quite surprised how much extra torque I had to apply.

I’ve just done the rear hub nuts too.  Again I got a 1/3rd of a turn of the nut on one side!

Cheers

Howard
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