Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Flywheel attachment - shiming washer?
#1
Hi all,

Just looking to see if anyone can see any issues with my intended course of action here. 
 
I’ve lapped my flywheel on to a new crank and got everything running nice a true.  However, I can tell by using my spacer (that’s the same width as the inner bearing race) that even with loads of torque applied to the nut I’ll not be able to make the oil thrower kiss the inner bearing race.  

Now I could lap some more to allow the flywheel boss to move toward the oil thrower but I hate the idea of removing any more metal that necessary.  What I’m proposing is to use 1 or 2 of the 0.006” shimming washers as shown in the photo.  These will ensure that the dimples on the oil thrower will be firmly nipped against the flywheel boss. 
 
I’ve not seen this proposed as an idea in the past so I’m worried I might have missed something.

Thanks for your thoughts.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Steve & Tate Davidson
Perpetual Amateur Austineers
Reply
#2
Leave the plate out and use a lip seal, or use a Belleville washer
Reply
#3
Hi Zeto,

My plan was to use a lipseal behind all of this, I'll be putting a speedi sleeve over the flywheel boss to get the best possible effect.  Do you think if I have the slinger there it will rob the lipseal of oil and thus reduce it's performance?
Steve & Tate Davidson
Perpetual Amateur Austineers
Reply
#4
I went to a lot of trouble and fitted a flinger seal in front of the (very large) seal in a Jowett Javelin as these used to rapidly go solid. I did not know about Viton seals at the time, if they existed. After a few hundred miles it emmitted a hissing sound. Fast reverse and wild braking cured it for a while and eventually it stayed quiet! Some oil has to reach the lip seal. The disc seal will draw oil toward itself.
on my car never any hint of dimples. Used to just stretch the metal slightly until it gripped. Could use a fibre washer but important that it not crushed too much or too little, centrifugal force even at 4000 rpm is astonishing.
(Edited. Wrote lip instead of flinger. The existing was a lip seal)
Reply
#5
(30-03-2020, 03:20 AM)steve davidson Wrote: Hi Zeto,

My plan was to use a lipseal behind all of this, I'll be putting a speedi sleeve over the flywheel boss to get the best possible effect.  Do you think if I have the slinger there it will rob the lipseal of oil and thus reduce it's performance?

I wouldn't have thought you could assemble a lip seal with the slinger in place ??
Reply
#6
If it helps you, I always assemble these with a lip seal and oil thrower in place.
Reply
#7
Hi Tony,

I think it's going to all fit but I'll be doing a dry-fitting soon to check.

Thanks Ruairidh,

If that's what you've been doing then that's good enough for me.
Steve & Tate Davidson
Perpetual Amateur Austineers
Reply
#8
Hi Steve
I'd be very interested to see some more photos of this as you sort it out.
Reply
#9
If the thrower was fully effective the lip seal would fail - it needs some lubrication to survive. However we all know how effective the thrower really is! So Ruairidh is on the right track I think.

Gosh I wish I had your problems Steve. I suppose you could use shims but it doesn't strike me as ideal. I'd at least use one thick one rather than two thin ones. Can you not belt the dimples in the thrower a bit deeper? Or perhaps look at other throwers - I have had them with slightly different dimensions / thickness over the years, though it's possible they may all come from the same source now. At some point it will occur to you to Loctite the rear bearing on instead - but don't.
Reply
#10
I always use use an oil thrower with a seal and use a Viton seal, set up on the bench with a spacer or the centre of an old bearing try oil thrower with flywheel if it does not lightly pinch the thrower when nipped up you will need a shim behind it. Terry.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)