The following warnings occurred:
Warning [2] Undefined variable $search_thread - Line: 60 - File: showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code PHP 8.1.28 (Linux)
File Line Function
/inc/class_error.php 153 errorHandler->error
/showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code 60 errorHandler->error_callback
/showthread.php 1617 eval




Thread Rating:
  • 1 Vote(s) - 2 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Ali sumps
#11
Tony Betts has them.
Reply
#12
I wouldn't use the deep Nippy sump from choice.  Firstly, the oil struggles to get up to temperature and secondly, it makes removal of the engine an absolute sod if it is in a production model with the usual bulkhead.
The shallower sump with the angled front is best in my opinion.  It adds useful rigidity to the base of the crankcase and the engine is still easy to remove from the chassis.  The capacity is not much more than the standard tin sump if you take into account the thickness of the casting and the internal stiffening webs.
I also like the idea of replacing the usual sump bolts with studs.
Reply
#13
thank you to those suggesting me, for the supply of aluminium sumps.

im mainly out of stock at the moment. sorry.

please dont grumble.

its due to an order of items costing several £10k, pistons, cam followers, some other new items ill let you know about when they come closer.

so some items are having to what a little longer to be made, sumps are in there.

i can easily spend £100k at a time on seven spares, but my pockets are only deep enough for £10k at a time.

so ive put sumps on order for 3 months time.

keep on eye on our website 7ca.co.uk for updates.

thanks tony.
Reply
#14
For what it's worth Malcolm I largely agree with you.

On my Ulster rep it is possible - just - to winch the engine in and out with a deep sump on; it works better if you do it with the flywheel cover off, the head off, and the rear two head studs removed. It is lowered in with the gearbox tilted down and then rotated level by means of a bit of rope slung around the gearbox. Of course feasibility will differ car by car.

The sump can be removed in situ but this largely depends what you have stuck it to the case with as it's difficult to exert much downward force. It may be necessary to jack the front up ever so slightly to clear the chassis rails.

Likewise on oil temperature - I measured it once on a winter's day country lane run and it never got above 65 C. On the other hand no particular harm seems to have resulted in touring use. One solution which has been put forward is simply to fill it to the same capacity as a standard sump (the effectiveness of the aluminium fins I would venture is trivial).

The man reason to use one is (a) higher stiffness - whilst the semi-deep is stiffened I doubt it lends quite so much rigidity to the case as a deep one; and (b) the added capacity, which has proven useful more than once on a long, high speed run. I can darn near empty a sump on a run up the A1 to Newcastle!
Reply
#15
Chris, you are much braver than me if you drive an Austin 7 up the A1 to Newcastle!
Any of the aluminium sumps must help stiffen the crankcase, but obviously the condition of the fasteners is critical. Having a bit more oil capacity is reassuring on a long run.
If I was spending good money on a new alloy sump I would go for one that did not impede taking the engine out.
Reply
#16
I have an aluminium sump here on the shelf, marked BIRMAL XL 502. The outside is smooth, not finned, and inside there are no stiffening webs. Its capacity is approximately the same as the standard steel one.
Can someone please tell me more about this type of sump?
Andrew Fallon
Netherlands
Reply
#17
I have the sloping front Alloy sump which I gat from Tony a long time ago. It has AR cast into it so I suppose it's the Alan Raeburn pattern.
It has lugs on the side to allow it to be levered of. I take it off before removing the engine, makes thinks easier. I had to relieve it slightly to clear the chassis near the front and inside at the fron to clear the heads of the bolts holding the gause in place.
I'd got fed up with the tin sumps leaking. Pin holes kept appearing caused by condensation collecting in idle engines.
Jim
Reply
#18
Andrew, I believe you may have a very early sump there.
Black Art Enthusiast
Reply
#19
Can anyone tell me what is the correct quantity of oil needed for a Nippy sump. I assumed it was a quart but this seemed to overfill the sump. Admitidely, the dip stick is not the original and may be giving me a false reading.
Reply
#20
(09-02-2020, 08:29 PM)Ian Williams Wrote: Andrew, I believe you may have a very early sump there.
Thanks Ian, please tell me more.
Andrew Fallon
Netherlands
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)