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My Kiwi Reproduction ulster
#11
That is truly impressive.
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#12
Fantastic work.
Stephen
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#13
Thanks Ian. A bad crowd alright, I'll need therapy soon. It's getting there, nice to finally see something physical rather than drawings and discarded bits of metal.
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#14
Hi Athanasius,
Great workmanship,
I think its going to be the rest of us who will need the Therapy

Colin 
NZ
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#15
Looks good Atho! Let me know when you're in Welly next and come visit.

Oh, one tip, Repco have a good zinc primer that works great spraying over the zintec steel after you're been bashing it. Helps stop the flash surface rusting and it's almost the same colour so it makes the panels a consistent grey that I always found helped when eyeing things up to see they looked right. I think it's this one: https://www.repco.co.nz/en/car-care-pane...p/A1227123

The other stuff you can use that was recommended to me is called Paintgrip 253 (used to be called Kephos).

http://www.solvents.net.au/index_htm_fil...12997).pdf

That stuff can be wiped on bare steel and it's very good at stopping it rusting. I use it a lot on steel parts I have sandblasted before painting them, stub axles and the like. Riley parts I blasted a few years ago are still un-rusted after wiping in that. I can't remember where I got it from last time (took some ringing about) but I need more so I will get extra and you can have a litre or so to try out next time I see you.

Simon
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#16
What fantastic work...very impressive!

Out of interest, how are you forming the nice sharp folds on the floor sections? Do you have a box folder or similar, or have you come up with a more cost effective solution?
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#17
Hi Colin Swinbourne,

Thanks for that. I am assuming the folds you asked about are the three main folds on the floor. I don't have any fancy equipment so I used a piece of angle iron clamped to the bench. I then clamped a separate piece of steel on top of the work piece set back from the fold line. You then bend the work piece down to create tension or spring and hit just under the fold line with a rubber mallet. The work piece relaxes and a sharp fold line is created.  What you don't want to do is bash in the fold, the "spring" does all the work for you.

   

Thanks Simon,

I will definitely let you know when I'm next in welly.  That's useful info I will look both products up and try them. Everything takes so long that you're always fighting corrosion.
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#18
It is quite insperational to see the skill levels displayed by members of our comunity. In many cases by non engineers with no formal training but bags of resourseful determination and thoughtfulness. An example and encouragement to us all.
This forum has to be one of the very best support, info, and general chat car forums arround and one that through the respectfulness of its contributors is also one of the most pleasant to follow and contribute to.

Paul N-M
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#19
Since the last update I have been grappling with the rear section of tunnel over the Diff. This has proved quite challenging for me and resulted in a lot of trials and tribulations. However perseverance paid off and after 5 attempts including two 3/4 scale versions, success was had. Below are few pictures of the drama.


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After this a lot of fitting and adjusting was done to get everything ready for riveting. This included making some last minute tooling for the gun as a 3.5" setting tool was not long enough to get in close to the side of the transmission tunnel. I ended up machining a new one out of mild steel. The shape of the factory head was shaped in tool steel. I then heated up the new tool and bashed in the correct dent. Despite my skepticism the mild steel held up and performed well. The rivets were solid soft iron rivets.


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Here are a few more pictures of the floor pan all riveted and sitting on the car.


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#20
Awesome job Atho, very pleased to see that the floor pan has finally all come together and is sitting on the chassis, you must be feeling justifiably proud of reaching this milestone.
Black Art Enthusiast
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