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Rear hub nut tightening
I've got the rear hub on the RN back together, with new bearings, seals and brakes, and am in the process of tightening the outer nut (the one on the end of the half-shaft).

The Woodrow book says, "...using a socket and at least 15" leverage, tighten the nut down hard." That's what I'm doing, but I'm worried I'm going to strip a thread. 

I've searched the forum for a post about this, but been unable to find one (which seems strange), and wondered if anybody had an actual torque setting.
I have never known a torque setting, but I always use a good fitting spanner, against a thin bit of tube round the hub thread to avoid possibility of damage, and tighten as far as I can, to the extent that I have lifted that corner of the car when doing this. I have never stripped the thread.
Robert Leigh
You can heave it up pretty tight. No need to go crazy. The important thing is that the taper should be taking the load not the key.
I always use a 26" breaker bar doing up the halfshaft nuts, haven't stripped a thread as yet.
Mine were done with an air impact wrench and some loctite. Stripped one thread on an old nut but it came off so easily I think it would have gone with a 6 inch spanner, so was best gone and replaced both to be sure with nice new nuts from cherished supplier
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Standard length socket spanner, stand on it.   

Gives about (9/12 x your body weight in lbs) foot pounds

In my case around 135 ft lbs, so I give a little bounce to bring it up to 150
I have a chart produced by Camco Solutions Ltd., and their recommendation for the half-shaft nuts was for a torque wrench setting of 125 lbs/ft and that is what I have done my up to.
New nuts, new split pins. Tightened with an electric windy gun.
My father used a primitive impact wrench - a stout ring spanner and a hefty hide mallet.
A four foot scaffold pole takes some beating!

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