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RN rear wheel arch removal
#1
Now that I have done the sliding roof, the next job is the windscreen rubber, (see other posts re this) BUT after that is replacing the wing piping on the offside rear wing. Reading the companion page 61 paragraph 3 it states, and I quote, " The nuts are fixed into the wheel arch rivet style and must be carefully sawn and split in order to remove the bolts." Firstly does this mean that the bolts cannot be undone at all in order to slip the piping in unless the nuts are destroyed and what happens to replace the nuts? Can you just put nuts on as normal? If I have to saw the nuts what is the best way to go about this? What direction do you saw? I am asking as I don't want to go to all the trouble of taking out the seating and internal wheel arch covers if the job is a nightmare!
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#2
I think the presumption is that the threads are rusted solid. If the mudguard has been off in recent times you might be lucky.
The appearance inside should give an indication of state. Destroyed or drilled threads can be tapped larger. Beware any combination of threads likely. Nuts can be used but assembly awkward for one person but no more so than many other cars.
If as is common on cars which have not received attention, the inner guard area is very rusted you may wish you had never started!
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#3
Why are you taking the wings off ? If they have to come off, then you should expect a certain amount of trouble. It would not suprise me if the bolts shear off - that is the easiest way as new nuts and bolts can be used once the old captive nuts have been ground off. When replacing the bolts, use "penny" washers to re-inforce the wing area. On my RN, it was an easy decision as the inner wings had rotted away and the outer wings dropped off !! Oh, and you will probably need new wing piping.
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#4
If they shear I always use Riv nuts in a new fixing near to the sheared off bolt ( which 99 out of 100 happens. )
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#5
Bob: The wing piping is shot and needs replacing, is the sole reason for removal.
I think maybe the wing has been off in distant past as it had a rear end shunt (floor pan crinkle evidence), it seems I'll strip out the cards and covers and see what's what. I was more concerned about the extent of "carefully sawing" and/or "grinding" off the inside nuts.

 "If I have to saw the nuts what is the best way to go about this? What direction do you saw? "

Nigel: Sorry for my ignorance, What's a Riv nut?
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#6
Riv nut- think pop rivet with a thread. You screw the riv  nut onto the threaded mandrel, feed through hole and squeeze up. Steel ones work ok, ali ones can corrode in time and then spin in the hole.

Tom

Edit. Should have said that nuts don't pop.
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#7
My Dad had a late 40's Hilman, and the bolts for the rear wings missed the manufactured elongated holes by about 1/2" - and that was a factory "fit".
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#8
Aluminium Rivnuts work fine....if you are concerned about corrosion a nip up before loosening works. You can break the head off a 2BA or1032 R quality bolt  (4.8in metric) if you seriously overtighten (with a sheet /component  between the rivnut head and the screw.) In a former existence I made aluminium Rivnuts & regularly surprised disbelievers! If you can make a hexagon hole the Rivnuts will expand into the hexagon.
Land Rover winches were held onto the chassis with 3/8 unf flat head Rivnuts and an instruction haw to install them without a bespoke tool. Bolt,2nuts & a washer (and some cursing! )
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