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Tracking
#21
(29-05-2019, 10:19 PM)Charles P Wrote: Having done this very adjustment a couple of months ago I now have the correct die to elongate the threads. Shout if you want to borrow it Duncan.

Charles

Charles, for the general benefit of mankind, would you be so kind as to reveal what thread it is exactly?

Just one of those anecdotes with which we like to obfuscate these discussions, but the track rod on my Ulster rep was cut and shut in the middle, presumably to match a slightly narrowed axle. The joint was made with a bit of tube slid inside and then welded around the periphery. The weld finally gave out after about 30 years' service, as I was traversing a series of hairpin bends on a mountain track between Sweden and Norway. It was only detectable as a general mushiness in the steering, which I stopped to investigate at the next petrol station, having driven for some miles in that state. I don't think the two halves ever completely separated but the tracking must have been all over the place as the outer wandered up and down the remaining bit of internal tube. I guess the general moral is, if you are going to modify these parts, make a good solid job of the welding!
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#22
3/4" x 20 tpi Chris, Tracy tools used to stock tham at a very reasonable price.

I encountered one that had been extended by brazing so it could be used with a big seven axle and it also eventually started to give way helped along by the fact the hapless mechanic had failed to recognise that Big seven axles have inclined king pins therefor using std A7 steering arms with no ball joint was not a particularly good move! Neither was the standard of his brazing, it had however lasted a good many miles before finally succumbing to the abuse.

I think Bob is getting himself all confused again from all the things he reads, the rods themselves are so strong that even with numerous marks they are extremely unlikely to break. They are however, as has been pointed, out somewhat susceptible to flexing, even so I have never heard of an unmodified one failing from fatigue, has anyone heard of such a thing?
Black Art Enthusiast
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#23
Hi KC
 
Anecdotes may sometimes obfuscate the basic question but are very welcome. The Forum would be very tedious without. Many, esp newcomers, often do not know exactly the questions they should be asking and the asides often fill the gap
 
Hi Ian and Allan
 
If all I contribute is so wrong the exact opposite must be right. Seems I should have written

 “If correcting the curvature in track rods you chance to kink it or introduce heavy vice jaw graunch marks do not fret. The part is over engineered esp for the later heavy cars with wide tyres and no matter how boisterously or for how many miles you load the steering the blemishes will never be the origin of failure”
 
Many are new to Sevens and the practical world and likely have no idea of the link between imperfections and failure, as was the case with myself at the outset. 
 
 
 
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#24
No Bob I don't agree, you were implying that the track rod was extremely weak and prone to fatigue failure which is simply not the case. If you are so concerned about newcomers it is probably best to keep your often uninformed comments to yourself rather than constantly scaremongering. This will have two benefits, firstly new people will not be mislead, and secondly other members will not have to keep correcting you and clearing up the confusion you so frequently cause. Stick to what you know something about and can constructively contribute to which as far as I can tell is mostly in the electrical field.
Black Art Enthusiast
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#25
As a minor diversion,how important is precise tracking?
I've just stuck it all back together having shortened the cross tube by increasing the bends a little and have lost 10mm. The Trackrite shows very little deviation from straight but my home-made tracking device shows it has a little toe-out. One turn of the "jaw " part no. BM82 takes it back to a similar amount of toe-in, about 10mm halfway up the rim. I've gone for the toe-out setting. Will this do?
I can't try it until I get a visitor who will pump the brake pedal for me to bleed the rear brakes, I can do the front without an assistant.
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#26
My tracking was out somewhat on the RN. Steering and handling OK but I scrubbed a pair of tyres out in 2,000 miles or so. I now think it is about OK and the steering is a magnitude lighter.
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#27
I thought a little toe-in was preferable. Makes driving in a straight line a little easier.
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#28
The large minimum increment of adjustment is annoying. I suspect it is in large part mechanics and others springing the track rod for final adjustment which straightens them.
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#29
My toe-in was such that on a roundabout I was either climbing the thing or heading for an exit that wasn't there! I'll try with a little toe-out and report back.
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#30
If you think about it a little Toe In is right - with a bit of wear and the possible flexing of the track rod the wheels should be parallel. 

With Toe Out the problem is exaggerated. 

If not steering correctly with 1/8" toe in then it is more likely incorrect caster.
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