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Back to the extra block studs
#21
It's been suggested to me to do the same mod as Greig but using steel blocks. Does it work as well using aluminium? When we're trying to tie something steel to aluminium what is the best material to use?

Simon
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#22
(26-12-2017, 11:33 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: Hi All,
On the old forum there was a post about crossover intakes for SU carbs and somebody had posted a photo of one of Frank Hernandez cars showing this setup but it also showed the rear clamp down arrangement that he had used which is very well Engineered  but I have not been able to find on the old site,
Perhaps Alan Might be able to help on this one.
Regards to all
Colin
Sorry, I'm away from home with no access to pictures and only intermittent internet. However, were you thinking of the one where there at long studs attached to a plate sandwiched in the rear main bearing cover? 

Actually, I'm not 100% convinced about the additional stud, as a solution to the problem. I was wondering about  gluing the block and crankcase together. Unless anyone can advise otherwise I might try it on the next engine I build for myself.
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#23
(27-12-2017, 06:17 PM)Alan Wrote:
(26-12-2017, 11:33 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: Hi All,
On the old forum there was a post about crossover intakes for SU carbs and somebody had posted a photo of one of Frank Hernandez cars showing this setup but it also showed the rear clamp down arrangement that he had used which is very well Engineered  but I have not been able to find on the old site,
Perhaps Alan Might be able to help on this one.
Regards to all
Colin
Sorry, I'm away from home with no access to pictures and only intermittent internet. However, were you thinking of the one where there at long studs attached to a plate sandwiched in the rear main bearing cover? 

Actually, I'm not 100% convinced about the additional stud, as a solution to the problem. I was wondering about  gluing the block and crankcase together. Unless anyone can advise otherwise I might try it on the next engine I build for myself.

I suspect that gluing is part of a good solution. It's already a component of the "Loctite 515"approach (as anyone who has levered apart a 515'd block knows)

Charles
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#24
[attachment=1772 Wrote:     Charles P pid='4989' dateline='1514396437']
(27-12-2017, 06:17 PM)Alan Wrote:
(26-12-2017, 11:33 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: Hi All,
On the old forum there was a post about crossover intakes for SU carbs and somebody had posted a photo of one of Frank Hernandez cars showing this setup but it also showed the rear clamp down arrangement that he had used which is very well Engineered  but I have not been able to find on the old site,
Perhaps Alan Might be able to help on this one.
Regards to all
Colin
Sorry, I'm away from home with no access to pictures and only intermittent internet. However, were you thinking of the one where there at long studs attached to a plate sandwiched in the rear main bearing cover? 

Actually, I'm not 100% convinced about the additional stud, as a solution to the problem. I was wondering about  gluing the block and crankcase together. Unless anyone can advise otherwise I might try it on the next engine I build for myself.

I suspect that gluing is part of a good solution. It's already a component of the "Loctite 515"approach (as anyone who has levered apart a 515'd block knows)

Charles
You could put the extra stud nearer the block by rotating the cambush to a new position, then drilling and tap a new hole through Crankcase and bush.
I would favour Brackets coming off the headstuds rather than just fixing the bottom of the block, and probably easier than fitting brackets to the block.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#25
i was researching previous threads on stud improvements and found this thread, this was what i did on my last engine (sorry pics are poor quality)

the rear stud was v. close to the block, with a narrow flange, & small dish ground out of the block to allow room around the nut & washer

the front one was a larger flange/block but needed the dynamo drive housing clearancing to miss the bolt heads

[Image: zzzzzzzz34435.jpg.opt860x950o0%2C0s860x950.jpg]


[Image: fdsfdsf.jpg]

Is there a thread/pic somewhere on the long cam-chest through-stud modification? (two going all the way from the block on the cam side up through the ports & out the top) as i'm looking for ideas on that
Dirk
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#26
I have used a bracket on the front as it depends what cyl/head you are using, for the rear stud fixing use a short length of hexagonal nut stock bar, tap 5/16bsf one end and turn down and die a stud length on the lower end, makeup a long tensile stud and angle bracket to fit the 2 rear head studs and weld a short length of drilled nut bar to the a/bracket, sorry can't provide a photo as I am in Cumbria for Barbon hillclimb. Terry
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#27
I’ve just loaded up the car. Weather forecast is interesting.
Alan Fairless
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#28
Using Loctite to glue to block to the crankcase sounds good however, be sure you never want to part them. Many years ago I was refitting the half ton drive end housing to an 8000 bhp engine in Australia. The joint should be a Loctite grade which doesn't have instant grab allowing the housing to be slid into position, unfortunately the Loctite grades in Australia had different codes to the UK and the one used was instant grab so it was a major operation to part the housing from the crankcase.
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#29
I got 105mph out of its sister car, and a reputed 82 bhp.
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#30
(27-12-2017, 06:17 PM)Alan Wrote:
(26-12-2017, 11:33 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: Hi All,
On the old forum there was a post about crossover intakes for SU carbs and somebody had posted a photo of one of Frank Hernandez cars showing this setup but it also showed the rear clamp down arrangement that he had used which is very well Engineered  but I have not been able to find on the old site,
Perhaps Alan Might be able to help on this one.
Regards to all
Colin
Sorry, I'm away from home with no access to pictures and only intermittent internet. However, were you thinking of the one where there at long studs attached to a plate sandwiched in the rear main bearing cover? 

Actually, I'm not 100% convinced about the additional stud, as a solution to the problem. I was wondering about  gluing the block and crankcase together. Unless anyone can advise otherwise I might try it on the next engine I build for myself.

Hi Alan

I had been pondering this same idea. Would the differing expansion of the crank case and block cause a glued joint to fail? I was thinking of using one of the high strength body repair glues now available.

Stuart.
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