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Body to chassis spacers?
#1
I seem to remember some spacers between body and chassis when I took the body off my 1934 Ruby. Can anyone enlighten me please? Were they rubber, about 3/8 inch thick? Or was it wood? And were they between body and chassis at all ten attachment bolts?

The body is now sitting on the chassis again and I want to get them bolted together. All comments gratefully received, thanks.
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#2
When I had the body off a '35 tourer recently there was a matting material between the body and the chassis, acting like a poultice absorbing water. Can't remember what I replaced it with, but it certainly wasn't something water absorbent.
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#3
The spacers on the ends of the chassis cross-members and either side of the gearbox were made from hard fibre board Andrew.

I have made them of wood in the past - a variety of thicknesses so that I can alter the heights to suit.

The top of the chassis backwards from the steering column and up over the rear extensions should have felt webbing (three separate pieces either side) - these held moisture originally causing rot and I have successfully overcome this by soaking the lengths in Waxoyl before using (bifurcated) rivets to secure it in place.
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#4
I find it always helps if one knows why an item exists and what it does/how it works.

Spacers: My memory from past reading and experience says these are used to fill in gaps that may exist:-
1. To prevent distortion of, for example the floor, when bracket and floor do not naturally meet but the nuts/bolts need to be tightened down. e.g.  Big gap .....tighten down and floor is likely to split not too far into the future.
2. Spacers can be added to increase the distance between items so that other remote parts come together more easily eg when fitting doors it may be necessary to add spacers to jack up the body a little at front or rear of door area to get shut lines right or line up door latches.  This is where it is sometimes helpful to assemble whole car loosely then gradually go round tightening up rather than tighten up one area then go on to fit more bits only to find out that the last bits have their holes about 3/4 inches out of alignment (I am now older and hopefully a bit wiser  Wink

The spacer material can vary depending on what is trying to be achieved. e.g for end of chassis cross-members to body floor where the brackets are riveted on and not adjustable I have used strip steel to fill the gap since it is just a metal to metal bracket to floor joint and it is just that you can't move the bracket to nicely fit against both surfaces.  I would also make the spacer part that sits against the floor a larger area to spread the load from being just a bolt head size round the hole. I have often put a thin layer of rubber between the metal surfaces. 
Bear in mind that the whole body and chassis are not  precision built structures so there are occasions when some holes need to be encouraged to line up by putting a bit of packing somewhere to avoid local overstressing.  Lining up the front body extension holes with those in the cow-horns ??? Angry

Material: Depends on what is trying to be achieved..e.g. engine mount rubber to  absorb vibration while allowing a certain amount of movement to avoid stress on casting.  Does there need to be a little bit of flecability or does the joint need to be rigid?

I feel it is good to ensure whatever material is used needs to be waterproof and maybe oil rot proof.

Chassis/floor strips need to be waterproof (and probably oil rot proof  Smile ) I use a selected thinish material..(can't remember if neoprene or similar derivative).  This provides sound deadening and prevents steel to steel (or paint to paint) contact/chafing.

A very good source of material and technical information on which material in which situations is SEALS DIRECT www.sealsplusdirect.co.uk.
Their catalogue gives technical info for which material to use for which situations as well as showing items at actual size with cross sections  e.g. wing to body piping, piping for between body and cow-horns etc.
I have always found them very helpful.

Dennis
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#5
I have used Denso Tape between the body and chassis on the Grasshopper replica. nasty, sticky, greasy stuff, but it will hopefully stop any water getting into the joint.

Stuart.
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#6
(14-09-2017, 07:50 PM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: The spacers on the ends of the chassis cross-members and either side of the gearbox were made from hard fibre board Andrew.

I have made them of wood in the past - a variety of thicknesses so that I can alter the heights to suit.

The top of the chassis backwards from the steering column and up over the rear extensions should have felt webbing (three separate pieces either side) - these held moisture originally causing rot and I have successfully overcome this by soaking the lengths in Waxoyl before using (bifurcated) rivets to secure it in place.

Ruairidh, did you once mention the use of a material usually employed in the building trade instead of felt between the chassis and body?
It was used by Ed China in the restoration of a Morgan.
Regards
Stuart
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#7
I don't remember that Stuart - but that does not mean I didn't!

In the last 8 years I have only ever used the original type felt soaked in Waxoyl.
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#8
Stuart,
I have seen mentioned by others before that rolls of damp proof course material have been used successfully. This is a sort of black pvc about 3-4 mm thick. Cheap and long lasting.
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#9
Personally I would avoid Denso tape as it will be difficult to remove the body later should you need to. Originally designed to protect pipe work underground it does remain flexible but that really gluey stuff bonds well and may distort a thin floor when trying to remove the body from a chassis leg.
I have used neoprene foam self adhesive strip stuck to the chassis and it seems to reject water ingress and allows removal.
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#10
Denso tape is basically a grease impregnated cloth, there is nothing in it to make it stick so tight it would distort a metal panel, we used loads of it at work for waterproofing coaxial joints and bottle screw threads and never had any trouble removing it even after many years in service, the outer layers would go slightly harder with the build up of dirt, but underneath that it is just as it came of the roll.
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