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Slippery Anne update
This car will be quite something when it fires up for the track!!

Well done Mark!

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
Great Work I am assuming that you have had to rely on Photos to get prospective and measurements and that is not easy.

Such beautiful work Mark. definitely a standard we should all strive for. I can't wait to see your project finished.
Cheers, Stephen
This was our interpretation of the Slippery Anne chassis/spring setup on a short chassis done some 20yrs ago. We did it to get the drivers seat
 as low as possible beside the torque tube, the car went to Ireland after a couple of VSCC owners.
(10-02-2019, 08:35 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: HI MARK.
Great Work I am assuming that you have had to rely on Photos to get prospective and measurements and that is not easy.

Hello Colin,

Mostly, yes, I am fortunate to have a quiet sizeable collection of period pictures of the car, so will often be found pouring over a blown up section of one with vernier in hand. Once I establish a calibration measurement it usually works out, but I need to watch out for distorted images.

I was very pleased when I layed my ruler on the original O/S bonnet, with Slippery Anne painted on it, to find I had the domensions for this exactly. But, what supprised me was a grass hopper painted between Anne and Slippery, I had never observed it in the period pictures. So an implicit warning about working exclusively from pictures - not everything is evident!

It also helps that they did everything in imperial chunks of whole inches, quarters, eighths etc……

Kind regards,


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This is the N/S, but you will see somthing dividing the name, but not a grass hopper.

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Less clear, this is the surviving drivers side in period. Unlike the grass hopper, visual distortion of the image is evident.
excellent panel beating, is it your trade or did you learn from books?......if so can you recommend one as the only ones i can find use English Wheels.
When I first started working on my 3D printed Enigma machine I didn't have any blueprints to work from so used photos. I modified some cheap digital calipers by adding an Arduino microcontroller and a small OLED screen. You enter in a scaling factor then measure from the drawing with the calipers and the little screen will show you the scaled measurement. They work very well but I never got past the breadboard stage since I came across some proper scaled blueprints I could use. A project to go back to one day. Pity the idea was already patented!

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This guys DVD is very good. No fancy tools required.

[video=youtube] [Only registered and activated users can see the links Click here to register][/video]

I found it well worth the money. Even if you never try anything just watching how good he is at doing it was interesting.

I have used PhotoShop to count pixels and scale from photos and photos of drawings. Open the image and use the selection tool to carefully select a known part of the image. Copy that selection. If you open a new project while you have something in the clipboard, it will make the canvas the size of that selection. It also tells you what that size is. So, if your 1.25" wide part selected is 400 pixels wide in the image, you can extrapolate that your image is scaled to 320 pixels per actual inch. Now, you can go about the image selecting parts, counting pixels and calculating sizes. With zoom and careful selection you can get quite accurate. I'm sure most image editing software can be used similarly. You do need one known dimension to start with. Enjoy, Mike
Mark, I suspect the grasshopper is there on your n/s photo; you have encountered the problem with early b&w film which cannot distinguish between yellow and green.
its to do with the type of film, ive spent a lot of time researching it to ascertain original livery of traction engines from old photos. Reds and greens end up looking like very dark colors using some films

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