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Brake Lights
#1
With brakes that are not (inter) connected! is it better to fit a brake light switch to the foot or hand brake? (or one to each? - that is getting a bit complicated for my lack of wiring skills.
My thinking is just to the footbrake as that is the "natural" brake & if you are hauling on the hand brake then the foot pedal will probably be on anyway!
Can anyone put up a simple wiring diagram for adding a brake switch please? I have nothing at the moment on the '27 Chummy nor the '29 RK!
David
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#2
Hi David

Take a live feed from the A7 fuse box output side
To feed the input side of two brake light switches.
Take wires from the output side of these switches,
link them together to a single wire and connect that wire
To your brake light bulb holder(s).

So pressing the foobrake or pulling on the handbrake,
Or bothtogether will light up you brake light(s).

Hope this is clear . You can get nice cheape m/c
Brake light switch , from m/c suppliers on EBay.
Much cheaper than repro Lucas ones.

Still to figure out where to mount the switches and an
Mechanical appropriate connection to trigger the switch(Ed)

All the best

Bill H
Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border,
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#3
Hi David

On my RK I've taken a live feed direct from the battery and mounted a fuse box close by under the passenger seat.  Cables can then be passed easily down to the nearside brake cable and a simple pull switch mounted there.  The brake light cables can then be routed along the transmission tunnel.  I've also mounted the flasher unit (with buzzer) under the seat and flasher switch on the tunnel between the seats.  All the wiring is pretty much hidden and is separate from the original wiring.

Cheers

Howard

PS I remember being told by my dad to use the handbrake (not connected to the lights) when being followed by a police car so that they don't think you are braking so hard to get under the speed limit! Not sure it works these days with the complex speed tracking devices used now.
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#4
(05-12-2018, 07:00 PM)Howard Wright Wrote: Hi David

On my RK I've taken a live feed direct from the battery and mounted a fuse box close by under the passenger seat.  Cables can then be passed easily down to the nearside brake cable and a simple pull switch mounted there.  The brake light cables can then be routed along the transmission tunnel.  I've also mounted the flasher unit (with buzzer) under the seat and flasher switch on the tunnel between the seats.  All the wiring is pretty much hidden and is separate from the original wiring.

Cheers

Howard

PS I remember being told by my dad to use the handbrake (not connected to the lights) when being followed by a police car so that they don't think you are braking so hard to get under the speed limit! Not sure it works these days with the complex speed tracking devices used now.
I wouldn’t put a switch on the handbrake of a Magneto engined car because you have no means of a switched supply, ok on a coil ign car, wire it into the supply to the coil with an inline fuse.Leaving the car with the handbrake on in  a magneto car if you have a switch on it will discharge the battery.
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#5
Hi Zeto

Good point about the handbrake on Magneto Cars.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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#6
(05-12-2018, 09:52 PM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: Hi Zeto

Good point about the handbrake on Magneto Cars.

Regards

Bill G

Thanks for that information, very helpful.
 Both my cars are Dynamo'd, so that at least will not be a problem!
There is the remains of an ancient (unconnected switch - that works!), but I think I can run to switches from someone like Auto Electric supplies (£6.79 plus £2.20 for a rubber cover!). They also do 4 way junction boxes (57mm dia) for £3.69. - I will change the lid screw which has a anachronistic Cross+Slot screw!
On early cars I don't think there were junction boxes as the electrics basically seemed to just go from A to B!
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#7
(05-12-2018, 11:25 PM)David.H Wrote:
(05-12-2018, 09:52 PM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: Hi Zeto

Good point about the handbrake on Magneto Cars.

Regards

Bill G

Thanks for that information, very helpful.
 Both my cars are Dynamo'd, so that at least will not be a problem!
There is the remains of an ancient (unconnected switch - that works!), but I think I can run to switches from someone like Auto Electric supplies (£6.79 plus £2.20 for a rubber cover!). They also do 4 way junction boxes (57mm dia) for £3.69. - I will change the lid screw which has a anachronistic Cross+Slot screw!
On early cars I don't think there were junction boxes as the electrics basically seemed to just go from A to B!

It will be a problem in a coil car if you power directly from the battery unless you have an isolating switch and turn off each time you stop.
I wouldn't put a brake switch on the handbrake, but I suppose the interconnected cars have this .
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#8
My 1929 split braking saloon has brake lights on the footbrake only.
I would like to add them to the hand brake as well but haven't worked out a good way of mounting a switch.
Does anyone have ideas for this?
In order to equalise wear it is a good idea to use the handbrake.
I use it when approaching places where I know I shall need to slow down or stop such as traffic lights, roundabouts and right turns onto minor roads.
As I approach I apply the handbrake a couple of notches to start slowing down and then use the footbrake to bring the car to a stop or else release the handbrake if it isn't needed.
In this situation it would be safer to have the brake lights on.
Jim
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#9
(06-12-2018, 03:45 PM)AustinWood Wrote: My 1929 split braking saloon has brake lights on the footbrake only.
I would like to add them to the hand brake as well but haven't worked out a good way of mounting a switch.
Does anyone have ideas for this?
In order to equalise wear it is a good idea to use the handbrake.
I use it when approaching places where I know I shall need to slow down or stop such as traffic lights, roundabouts and right turns onto minor roads.
As I approach I apply the handbrake a couple of notches to start slowing down and then use the footbrake to bring the car to a stop or else release the handbrake if it isn't needed.
In this situation it would be safer to have the brake lights on.


Early Sevens slow very slowly compared to moderns- I don't think anyone would notice  Smile
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#10
(05-12-2018, 05:31 PM)David.H Wrote: With brakes that are not (inter) connected! is it better to fit a brake light switch to the foot or hand brake? (or one to each? - that is getting a bit complicated for my lack of wiring skills.
My thinking is just to the footbrake as that is the "natural" brake & if you are hauling on the hand brake then the foot pedal will probably be on anyway!
Can anyone put up a simple wiring diagram for adding a brake switch please? I have nothing at the moment on the '27 Chummy nor the '29 RK!
David

If you are on 6 volt, don't forget switches need to be able to carry twice the current than they do on later 12 volt systems (for two 21 watt lamps = 7 amps) the switch on mine failed and I fitted a relay to get over the problem.
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