18-05-2019, 06:28 PM
Following my misfortune with the snapped valve chest block to crankcase stud, the engine of my RP is out of the car the block somewhere in Scotland being rebored. In the meantime I have been slowly going through the rest of the bits making sure that everything is in good a nick as possible before reassembly.
As the bottom half of the engine involves a later 2brg crankcase from a low frame car, getting the engine out isn't that easy as the flywheel tends to snag on the throttle cross-shaft. Although purists may frown, the bulkhead has been "modified" to make the process as easy as possible, including the removal of some metal to permit the unit to be removed without disturbing the clutch pedal (pad removed). In order for this to happen new rear engine mounts have been made that can come out from the underside of the chassis. Due to the fact that I get vertigo if I go grovelling about under the car I have bypassed the need to use a spanner/ socket from below by welding a thick washer under the bolt head and grinding a flat on it to make it 'D' shaped. Once inserted from below the flat on the washer prevents it from rotating and I can concentrate on the awkward job of tightening the nuts from inside the engine compartment. I've also replaced the split pins on the control levers with 'R' clips. (Although the adv/retard is locked off due to the Bosch dizzy, I leave the rod in place just as a sop to authenticity)
As the bottom half of the engine involves a later 2brg crankcase from a low frame car, getting the engine out isn't that easy as the flywheel tends to snag on the throttle cross-shaft. Although purists may frown, the bulkhead has been "modified" to make the process as easy as possible, including the removal of some metal to permit the unit to be removed without disturbing the clutch pedal (pad removed). In order for this to happen new rear engine mounts have been made that can come out from the underside of the chassis. Due to the fact that I get vertigo if I go grovelling about under the car I have bypassed the need to use a spanner/ socket from below by welding a thick washer under the bolt head and grinding a flat on it to make it 'D' shaped. Once inserted from below the flat on the washer prevents it from rotating and I can concentrate on the awkward job of tightening the nuts from inside the engine compartment. I've also replaced the split pins on the control levers with 'R' clips. (Although the adv/retard is locked off due to the Bosch dizzy, I leave the rod in place just as a sop to authenticity)