Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,118 Threads: 111
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
I took the speedo cable out of the RK to investigate why the speedo was so erratic. Turns out the sheath had come unsoldered causing the cable to hardly reach the drive.
Why is worn aluminium and grease (like that found all over the speedo cable) an absolute pain to get off your hands!
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,409 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
(23-10-2018, 07:55 PM)Howard Wright Wrote: I took the speedo cable out of the RK to investigate why the speedo was so erratic. Turns out the sheath had come unsoldered causing the cable to hardly reach the drive.
Why is worn aluminium and grease (like that found all over the speedo cable) an absolute pain to get off your hands!
Howard
Perhaps you already do Howard, but those who don't a 'top tip' is to use barrier cream on your hands before working on the car. It is of course conceived to protect your skin but has the side effect of making your hands much easier to get clean, especially if you work it under your finger nails when applying.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 202 Threads: 11
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(23-10-2018, 08:06 PM)Chris KC Wrote: (23-10-2018, 07:55 PM)Howard Wright Wrote: I took the speedo cable out of the RK to investigate why the speedo was so erratic. Turns out the sheath had come unsoldered causing the cable to hardly reach the drive.
Why is worn aluminium and grease (like that found all over the speedo cable) an absolute pain to get off your hands!
Howard
Perhaps you already do Howard, but those who don't a 'top tip' is to use barrier cream on your hands before working on the car. It is of course conceived to protect your skin but has the side effect of making your hands much easier to get clean, especially if you work it under your finger nails when applying.
Off topic, sorry, but I use latex gloves, by far better than barrier cream (which makes the skin feel greasy - I bought a tub years ago and still only half used, should really chuck it out), keeps the skin clean, a downside is they can make your hands sweat in hot weather!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,409 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
(23-10-2018, 08:15 PM)GK5268 Wrote: (23-10-2018, 08:06 PM)Chris KC Wrote: (23-10-2018, 07:55 PM)Howard Wright Wrote: I took the speedo cable out of the RK to investigate why the speedo was so erratic. Turns out the sheath had come unsoldered causing the cable to hardly reach the drive.
Why is worn aluminium and grease (like that found all over the speedo cable) an absolute pain to get off your hands!
Howard
Perhaps you already do Howard, but those who don't a 'top tip' is to use barrier cream on your hands before working on the car. It is of course conceived to protect your skin but has the side effect of making your hands much easier to get clean, especially if you work it under your finger nails when applying.
Off topic, sorry, but I use latex gloves, by far better than barrier cream (which makes the skin feel greasy - I bought a tub years ago and still only half used, should really chuck it out), keeps the skin clean, a downside is they can make your hands sweat in hot weather!
I do use latex gloves GK but the first sign of a sharp edge and they're history...
Joined: Oct 2018 Posts: 4 Threads: 1
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Joined: May 2018 Posts: 331 Threads: 51
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Location: East Sussex Coast
Had a busy afternoon cleaning out the 26VA carburettor that was retro fitted to my RN before I got it. Then enjoyed showing Forum member GK5268 what I had achieved by way of tidying up before we went for a short drive, or attempt, kept stopping but managed to get back in short bursts. Then enjoyed driving his Ruby, bit different than the RN!! I should have taken out the carb needle and cleaned it earlier, full of crud. Runs OK now. Made the decision to buy Tapox and Fertan to deal with the crud in the tank. If I could find a Ewarts main & Reserve petrol tap it would help. Tried to buy a banjo filter gauze, but can't find one. Doesn't appear on the Burlen parts list. Hey ho. Need to replace the fabric joint and carden boot next. Time for second half of footie.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,644 Threads: 93
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Location: Monmouthshire
Went to the pub, for the lunchtime/driving fizzy water. Gave a lift to a pal who has a 1928 Swift fabric bodied saloon. He said how impresed he was that the Ruby is so fast. Well faster than the Swift anyway.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 331 Threads: 51
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Location: East Sussex Coast
(23-10-2018, 08:37 PM)Biddlecombe Wrote: Had a busy afternoon cleaning out the 26VA carburettor that was retro fitted to my RN before I got it. Then enjoyed showing Forum member GK5268 what I had achieved by way of tidying up before we went for a short drive, or attempt, kept stopping but managed to get back in short bursts. Then enjoyed driving his Ruby, bit different than the RN!! I should have taken out the carb needle and cleaned it earlier, full of crud. Runs OK now. Made the decision to buy Tapox and Fertan to deal with the crud in the tank. If I could find a Ewarts main & Reserve petrol tap it would help. Tried to buy a banjo filter gauze, but can't find one. Doesn't appear on the Burlen parts list. Hey ho. Need to replace the fabric joint and carden boot next. Time for second half of footie. Thanks to GK5268 he found a gauze filter for me on ebay. Ordered.
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I'm still trying to find some of the gloves Ruairidh wears, all the ones I use end up in two pieces in minutes, a thumb and palm section and four fingers and a back section. I've tried vinyl, latex with no difference.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 188 Threads: 21
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Location: Haverfordwest
Car type: RP Deluxe Saloon 1933
(24-10-2018, 09:22 AM)Dave Mann Wrote: I'm still trying to find some of the gloves Ruairidh wears, all the ones I use end up in two pieces in minutes, a thumb and palm section and four fingers and a back section. I've tried vinyl, latex with no difference.
Dave,
A little talcum powder inside the gloves and they slip on no problem.
Roger
Location:- Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire.
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