worn torque tube socket

[Scarlet O'Hara]

Hi, has anybody got a remedy for a badly worn torque tube ball and socket other than changing the socket for a better one? Mine still has a lot of play even with the ring nut done up as far as possible. Has anybody tried machining the rear face of the socket to allow the ring nut to go in further?

[Steve Jones]

Yes. It worked and restored into use a torque tube that was, effectively, scrap!! In my case, the ball was so badly worn that changing the 'socket' (torque tube anchor) for a better one still didn't remove all the play. The effects of using it for trialing for 15 years or so where grease and grit evolve into grinding paste.

You will have to restore the end of the thread on the socket/torque tube anchor but a thread file did that for me.

Steve

[Ruairidh Dunford]

What he said - has worked for me on several occasions.

[Scarlet O'Hara]

Thanks, seems like that's the remedy to go for. Hope to be using the car next weekend so it will have to go on my to-do list when building up a new axle over the winter.

[Bob Culver]

The rate of wear is considerable. My own car had run out of adj at 100,000 despite very regular greasing. Taken up by turning as described. Note that the clamp action tightens markedly when the lock bolts are tightened; all must be an easy fit prior.

A  problem when worn is binding at extreme travel; too tight and something may break. With some fettling the ball can be made more spherical again but any metal is precious. What is the standard full cure? Build up with weld? Or brazing? If building up a complete axle assembly the chance to consider.
 
Is there any way of entrapping felt, nitrile or somesuch so that the joint can accommodate out of round wear without knocking?

[JonE]

I'm just looking at the Platts expanded diagram for this and presuming there are two sources of play.. on the socket as previously discussed (mine seems ok) and the pieces which secure to the chassis mounted ball.
(Which goes up and down a lot on mine)
On all the Platts diagrams there is a locking bolt under the socket and above the anchor (short anchor; bits on car are from 29 to 31 axle) - I don't have one.
Is that a problem? What must this anchor be off?

I've also taken out a user-made locking washer under the screw-on anchor base 'cap', presuming the locking ring will be enough.
Just adjust up until no upward/downward movement... or leave a little movement?

["Slack Alice" Simon]

I have just dismantled one which was packed with a thin piece of felt.

I'm sure it would work for a while but the felt would retain grit and greatly improve the grinding action.

Simon

[JonE]

thankyou Simon - all seems to be in good order internally but changed my post probably as you were posting. I've adopted removal of all up down slack but no more...

[Hedd_Jones]

Worked for me too, I ''machined'' it in situ. I'll let you guess how

[Robert Foreman]

Quite easy to machine, bolt back on a fixture after deburring the face going back against the fixture  
  Face off and then reassemble using molyslip grease.