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Starter dog removal Mag engine
#11
This may sound stupid but have you tried tightening it to see if it will break the seal. Then undoing it. I have used this method in the past to get tight nuts moving on the thread. Once moved you can use penetrating oil.

John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
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#12
[quote='jboy964' pid='12122' dateline='1529766839']
Looking for a little advice here. I cannot shift the starter dog nut on my Magneto engined seven! Before I break anything expensive could I ask for guidance from those that have already been there.

Engine is out of car, stripped to the point of just crank and bearings in case, flywheel off but back on for the purpose of starter dog removal.

Will an impact wrench do it?

Cheers, John


Do you have a decent bench mounted vice which is secure, if so refit the flywheel
together with its key, tighten up the nut reasonably, tip the whole lot upside down on the vice, grasp the upper portion of the flywheel in the vice, tighten vice with scaffold tube or similar, fit your spanner or socket then put a prop between the floor and the underside of the spanner, preventing rotation of the flywheel is the main issue.

You may find the spanner wants to jump off the nut, is so, if you have a welder tack weld the spanner to the hexagon
I don’t favour the hitting a spanner method as usually something get broken or damaged.
Rgds Gene
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#13
Hi Jboy,
At this stage I would cut it off, other wise you are putting undue strain on the crankshaft.
And fit new dog .

Colin NZ
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#14
(23-06-2018, 10:50 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: Hi Jboy,
At this stage I would cut it off, other wise you are putting undue strain on the crankshaft.
And fit new dog .

Colin NZ
Colin , if you cut it off you still have to get the remnants out of the crank, also risk of damage to the timing gear.This will come undone, particularly as it hasn’t been left in a field for decades.
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#15
If you are anywhere near Worcestershire, you are welcome to try my 340nm electric impact wrench. This has never failed me so far.
1931 RN, 1933 APD
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#16
On old Sevens evidence of a cold chisel having been used on some large nuts is not uncommon. It was not to gain special tightness etc but simply because tools were relatively very expensive and few had the range of large shifting spanners, special spanners, sockets etc necessary. Unfortunately many omitted to grind the chisel blunt first!

If there is any hint of indents in the expensive front bearings, these are ruined. If angular contact, normally otherwise reusable indefinitely with shims.
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#17
    For those of you interested, this shifted it, Hilti impact wrench.

John
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#18
Nice work John - useful tool!
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#19
You seem to be doing the right things John. In these circumstances I would suggest holding the flywheel as rigidly as possible - it's surprisingly easy to move even a chunky friend with a bit of leverage. Can you bolt the engine back in the frame, for example?  And do use a spanner that fits the nut well, once it's rounded off there won't be much you can do. Has someone used Loctite on it I wonder? Either way heat is your friend.

(Sorry - you seem to have fixed it while I was typing - well done!)
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#20
Lidl do a very handy mains powered impact wrench for £30. Great for those b*satrd nuts that won't move.
You just have to keep your eyes open for when it's in stock.

Charles
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