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Clutch toggle levers
#11
(29-05-2018, 08:29 AM)BTony Press Wrote:
(28-05-2018, 03:54 PM)Charles P Wrote: I use late type levers, with the hammerhead, and a four speed release bearing on a 3 speed engine and gear box. No problems. And no, I don't bother with mousetrap springs.
I know of a number of other people with the same set up. Much easier on the release bearing because it's not always revolving.

Charles

Not sure how you can be sure the clutch bearing isn't being turned by the levers flying out without the mousetrap springs to hold then in place- or possibly even worse the levers are sliding around the bearing.

Tony.

It's never been a problem, so I don't worry about it!

Charles
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#12
   
3psd flywheel with toggle springs fitted
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#13
This strikes me as a worthwhile mod. on standard three speed covers Terry, holds every in place for assembly I imagine?
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#14
Aid to clutch repair helps assembly


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#15
Brilliant, I saw the three holes in your first photo but could not work out what they did.

I am going to try that, thank you!
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#16
I've had details of these clutch modifications from Terry in the past. They work very well and I have to say I'm very much a follower of any advice Terry gives.

However, if you're simply putting a standard three speed set up back together, one way of holding the levers in place whilst you mate engine to gearbox is to wedge each lever in place with a small piece of paper between the side of the lever and the side of its slot in the cover. Normally, a single thickness of paper does the job. Once it's all together, pushing the clutch pedal down releases the paper which disappears harmlessly 'somewhere'.

Steve
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#17
(29-05-2018, 09:54 AM)Terrytuned Wrote: Aid to clutch repair helps assembly

Was there any reason not to use 1/4" BSF setscrews or studs; you are relying on the strength of the 1/4" tip of your modified 5/16" setscrews anyway?
Robert Leigh
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#18
(29-05-2018, 11:26 AM)Robert Leigh Wrote:
(29-05-2018, 09:54 AM)Terrytuned Wrote: Aid to clutch repair helps assembly

Was there any reason not to use 1/4" BSF setscrews or studs; you are relying on the strength of the 1/4" tip of your modified 5/16" setscrews anyway?
Robert Leigh

I think Terry said that the shoulder on the turned down setscrew prevents it being wound in too far when tightening down.
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#19
(29-05-2018, 10:51 AM)Steve Jones Wrote: I've had details of these clutch modifications from Terry in the past. They work very well and I have to say I'm very much a follower of any advice Terry gives.

However, if you're simply putting a standard three speed set up back together, one way of holding the levers in place whilst you mate engine to gearbox is to wedge each lever in place with a small piece of paper between the side of the lever and the side of its slot in the cover.  Normally, a single thickness of paper does the job. Once it's all together, pushing the clutch pedal down releases the paper which disappears harmlessly 'somewhere'.

Steve

My comments earlier relate to “assembly” onto the flywheel - the method you describe for gearbox installation is excellent and one I have used since Malcom sugggesed it last year.
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#20
(29-05-2018, 09:27 AM)Terrytuned Wrote: 3psd flywheel with toggle springs fitted

Thats the way to do it Terry, without the mousetrap springs the toggle levers will fly out to contact the thrust bearing so it will always be spinning. Do not test run an engine on a stand without mousetrap springs and gearbox in place the toggle levers will attack the bell housing studs.
I use a spring from the oiler to a modified oiler cover plate to retract the thrust bearing

I know the gearbox top is reversed, the unit is on it's transportation/storage stand and it takes up less room that way round.


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