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I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 555 Threads: 54
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
21-05-2018, 08:28 AM
(This post was last modified: 21-05-2018, 08:37 AM by Colin Wilks.
Edit Reason: Add link to PWA7C
)
(21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Hi Lawrence,
1. Seems an unlikely design feature.
2. Use the clutch as an on/off device. Don't try to slip it as you do in a modern car.
3. Original recommendation is 22 psi. I've just replaced my tyres (3.50-19) at Longstone, who recommend 30 psi and this seems OK to me.
4. See http://archive.a7ca.org/collections/hand...rts-lists/
5. Join the Pre War A7 Club! I'm new to Sevens and have had loads of help and advice from other owners. https://www.pwa7c.co.uk/join.php
Good luck,
Colin
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,209 Threads: 100
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Hello Lawrence and welcome.
I think before going a lot further, you need to share a bit more info on the car - the car widely referred to as an 'Ulster' (Austin never called it that) was only ever built on the earlier short chassis frame. A few people have built Ulster-style bodies onto later long frames - sounds like what you have. Does it have a four-speed gearbox?
Simple answer is jumping out of first is not uncommon and doesn't indicate a major fault, though the box might benefit from a modest overhaul. Rear axle tramp is also fairly normal, if that's what you are describing, perhaps someone cleverer than me can tell you how to sort it but it shouldn't keep you awake at nights.
For tyre pressures I'd suggest to start with 20psi all round.
Yes there are handbooks - The 750 Companion is a must. Doug Woodrow's manual is also useful. Finally Chris Gould's manual on how to build an Ulster Replica may be a useful reference - all fairly easily available through our parts suppliers or on eBay (though the latter can be more expensive).
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,247 Threads: 360
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Hi
I'd also get a copy of a Platts catalogue (see another recent thread on here) so you can see exactly what spec your car is and what may differ. All the diagrams are easy to understand and relate each part to each other, which the original handbooks dont do.
both my previous cars juddered in reverse.
Post some photos on here of things like engine bay and running gear then we can all be nosy and suggest sensible things at the same time.
But yes, join your local club for cheaper insurance and lots of magazines through your door... as well as people to talk to!!
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"clutch judder" Are the prop shaft anchor points too sloppy ? If you can rattle the joint (between the axle casing and centre of the prop shaft) then it needs adjusting. You can remove slack by both adjusting the ball joint from the prop shaft case to the chassis also the large screwed collar around the prop shaft casing. If you have rubber mounts on your engine, they are probably perished and need replacing / tightening - early engines were bolted directly to the chassis, where the rear bolts are tight, and the front bolts are tight minus about 1/2 to 1 thread.
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(21-05-2018, 08:28 AM)Colin Wilks Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Hi Lawrence,
1. Seems an unlikely design feature.
2. Use the clutch as an on/off device. Don't try to slip it as you do in a modern car.
3. Original recommendation is 22 psi. I've just replaced my tyres (3.50-19) at Longstone, who recommend 30 psi and this seems OK to me.
4. See http://archive.a7ca.org/collections/hand...rts-lists/
5. Join the Pre War A7 Club! I'm new to Sevens and have had loads of help and advice from other owners. https://www.pwa7c.co.uk/join.php
Good luck,
Colin
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 848 Threads: 22
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9
Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
(21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Jumping out of first gear is not normal, unless you have a broken selector spring which is almost certainly your problem. They are straightforward to change, by removal of the selector shaft (the one on the right for first gear). It is very easy to drop the locating balls and springs into the gearbox unless you are very careful, but they usually come out easily with a magnet on a pole or by upturning the gearbox. To save having to repeat the excercise it is worth changing all three while you have access, and the second two are easy once you have leaned how to do it on the first! Be careful to check for easy selection of all gears; the selector rods have to be set in just the right place, so that the lever moves completely smoothly across the gate,
Robert Leigh
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 6 Threads: 2
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21-05-2018, 11:06 AM
(This post was last modified: 21-05-2018, 11:32 AM by lolforre43.)
(21-05-2018, 10:47 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: (21-05-2018, 08:28 AM)Colin Wilks Dear Colin,Great to get such a prompt reply and thanks for the help. I\ve discovered that by holding the gearstick in the 'first' position I can prevent it from jumping out ( slightly unorthodox ). Have taken to heart your advice on reversing and the tyre pressures. I've printed out the Joiner form for PWA7C and will post it off as soon as I receive the new log book with the relevant information.A little background may help to explain my ignorance. I had two post-war classics but both were destroyed in an arson attack on the stables in which I kept them. However, the insurance paid up and with the money ( plus extra ) I bought the Ulster replica. It may have been a case of 'fools rushing in' as I was so pleased to find something close to home that I bought it as seen without bothering with the normal checks I would have undertaken with a modern car. In addition, although I've had lots of experience of post-war Austins I am pitifully ignorant regarding their predecessors. I don't really know exactly what I've bought except that it was registered in 1936, has an aluminium, unpainted body, a four speed gearbox and has had some work done on it by Rod Taylor ( there's a metal plate recording this on the dashboard ). There doesn't seem to be any paper history available only the dealer's verbal details. Having said all that, it starts and runs well and I'm getting used to the vague steering and absence of suspension. Thanks again. Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Hi Lawrence,
1. Seems an unlikely design feature.
2. Use the clutch as an on/off device. Don't try to slip it as you do in a modern car.
3. Original recommendation is 22 psi. I've just replaced my tyres (3.50-19) at Longstone, who recommend 30 psi and this seems OK to me.
4. See http://archive.a7ca.org/collections/hand...rts-lists/
5. Join the Pre War A7 Club! I'm new to Sevens and have had loads of help and advice from other owners. https://www.pwa7c.co.uk/join.php
Good luck,
Colin
(21-05-2018, 08:39 AM)Chris KC makes me wonder if I\ve been a little hasty. Dear Chris,Thanks for such a prompt reply. I'll provide some background as you suggest though I have yet to receive the new log book with the fine detail. The dealer from whom I bought it ( in Dorset ) informed me it was an Austin Ulster Replica. It was registered in 1936, has an unpainted aluminium body and a four-speed gearbox. There is a plate on the dashboard informing me that work was done on it by Rod Taylor ( whom I've yet to contact ). It didn't come with any paper history, just the dealer's verbal information on work done on the engine. I bought it as seen without the usual checks I would have undertaken on a modern car because the supplier was local ( an MG specialist ) and appeared perfectly trustworthy ( h'mmm ). The car seems to start and run satisfactorily apart from the vague steering and absent suspension but my ignorance of pre-war cars in general and this model in particularmakes me a little nervous. Thanks again for the advice,Lol Forrester Wrote: Hello Lawrence and welcome.
I think before going a lot further, you need to share a bit more info on the car - the car widely referred to as an 'Ulster' (Austin never called it that) was only ever built on the earlier short chassis frame. A few people have built Ulster-style bodies onto later long frames - sounds like what you have. Does it have a four-speed gearbox?
Simple answer is jumping out of first is not uncommon and doesn't indicate a major fault, though the box might benefit from a modest overhaul. Rear axle tramp is also fairly normal, if that's what you are describing, perhaps someone cleverer than me can tell you how to sort it but it shouldn't keep you awake at nights.
For tyre pressures I'd suggest to start with 20psi all round.
Yes there are handbooks - The 750 Companion is a must. Doug Woodrow's manual is also useful. Finally Chris Gould's manual on how to build an Ulster Replica may be a useful reference - all fairly easily available through our parts suppliers or on eBay (though the latter can be more expensive).
(21-05-2018, 08:43 AM)JonEThanks for the speedy response. I will certainly obtain a copy of Platts Catalogue ( through the PWA7C ? ) and find out more. Reassuring information on the clutch judder ( I\m told to avoid trying to slip it ). Photos will be available when I have mastered the technology and meanwhile I'll be joining the club as I think I'm going to value the advice. Lol Forrewster Wrote: Hi
I'd also get a copy of a Platts catalogue (see another recent thread on here) so you can see exactly what spec your car is and what may differ. All the diagrams are easy to understand and relate each part to each other, which the original handbooks dont do.
both my previous cars juddered in reverse.
Post some photos on here of things like engine bay and running gear then we can all be nosy and suggest sensible things at the same time.
But yes, join your local club for cheaper insurance and lots of magazines through your door... as well as people to talk to!!
(21-05-2018, 08:43 AM)JonEThanks for the speedy response. I will certainly obtain a copy of Platts Catalogue ( through the PWA7C ? ) and find out more. Reassuring information on the clutch judder ( I\m told to avoid trying to slip it ). Photos will be available when I have mastered the technology and meanwhile I'll be joining the club as I think I'm going to value the advice. Lol Forrewster Wrote: Hi
I'd also get a copy of a Platts catalogue (see another recent thread on here) so you can see exactly what spec your car is and what may differ. All the diagrams are easy to understand and relate each part to each other, which the original handbooks dont do.
both my previous cars juddered in reverse.
Post some photos on here of things like engine bay and running gear then we can all be nosy and suggest sensible things at the same time.
But yes, join your local club for cheaper insurance and lots of magazines through your door... as well as people to talk to!!
(21-05-2018, 08:39 AM)Chris KC makes me wonder if I\ve been a little hasty. Dear Chris,Thanks for such a prompt reply. I'll provide some background as you suggest though I have yet to receive the new log book with the fine detail. The dealer from whom I bought it ( in Dorset ) informed me it was an Austin Ulster Replica. It was registered in 1936, has an unpainted aluminium body and a four-speed gearbox. There is a plate on the dashboard informing me that work was done on it by Rod Taylor ( whom I've yet to contact ). It didn't come with any paper history, just the dealer's verbal information on work done on the engine. I bought it as seen without the usual checks I would have undertaken on a modern car because the supplier was local ( an MG specialist ) and appeared perfectly trustworthy ( h'mmm ). The car seems to start and run satisfactorily apart from the vague steering and absent suspension but my ignorance of pre-war cars in general and this model in particularmakes me a little nervous. Thanks again for the advice,Lol Forrester Wrote: Hello Lawrence and welcome.
I think before going a lot further, you need to share a bit more info on the car - the car widely referred to as an 'Ulster' (Austin never called it that) was only ever built on the earlier short chassis frame. A few people have built Ulster-style bodies onto later long frames - sounds like what you have. Does it have a four-speed gearbox?
Simple answer is jumping out of first is not uncommon and doesn't indicate a major fault, though the box might benefit from a modest overhaul. Rear axle tramp is also fairly normal, if that's what you are describing, perhaps someone cleverer than me can tell you how to sort it but it shouldn't keep you awake at nights.
For tyre pressures I'd suggest to start with 20psi all round.
Yes there are handbooks - The 750 Companion is a must. Doug Woodrow's manual is also useful. Finally Chris Gould's manual on how to build an Ulster Replica may be a useful reference - all fairly easily available through our parts suppliers or on eBay (though the latter can be more expensive).
(21-05-2018, 10:47 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: (21-05-2018, 08:28 AM)Colin Wilks Dear Colin,Great to get such a prompt reply and thanks for the help. I\ve discovered that by holding the gearstick in the 'first' position I can prevent it from jumping out ( slightly unorthodox ). Have taken to heart your advice on reversing and the tyre pressures. I've printed out the Joiner form for PWA7C and will post it off as soon as I receive the new log book with the relevant information.A little background may help to explain my ignorance. I had two post-war classics but both were destroyed in an arson attack on the stables in which I kept them. However, the insurance paid up and with the money ( plus extra ) I bought the Ulster replica. It may have been a case of 'fools rushing in' as I was so pleased to find something close to home that I bought it as seen without bothering with the normal checks I would have undertaken with a modern car. In addition, although I've had lots of experience of post-war Austins I am pitifully ignorant regarding their predecessors. I don't really know exactly what I've bought except that it was registered in 1936, has an aluminium, unpainted body, a four speed gearbox and has had some work done on it by Rod Taylor ( there's a metal plate recording this on the dashboard ). There doesn't seem to be any paper history available only the dealer's verbal details. Having said all that, it starts and runs well and I'm getting used to the vague steering and absence of suspension. Thanks again. Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Hi Lawrence,
1. Seems an unlikely design feature.
2. Use the clutch as an on/off device. Don't try to slip it as you do in a modern car.
3. Original recommendation is 22 psi. I've just replaced my tyres (3.50-19) at Longstone, who recommend 30 psi and this seems OK to me.
4. See http://archive.a7ca.org/collections/hand...rts-lists/
5. Join the Pre War A7 Club! I'm new to Sevens and have had loads of help and advice from other owners. https://www.pwa7c.co.uk/join.php
Good luck,
Colin
(21-05-2018, 08:28 AM)Colin Wilks Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Hi Lawrence,
1. Seems an unlikely design feature.
2. Use the clutch as an on/off device. Don't try to slip it as you do in a modern car.
3. Original recommendation is 22 psi. I've just replaced my tyres (3.50-19) at Longstone, who recommend 30 psi and this seems OK to me.
4. See http://archive.a7ca.org/collections/hand...rts-lists/
5. Join the Pre War A7 Club! I'm new to Sevens and have had loads of help and advice from other owners. https://www.pwa7c.co.uk/join.php
Good luck,
Colin
(21-05-2018, 11:00 AM)Robert LeighThanks for that; I\ll certainly look into it. Currently I'm holding the gearstick in first to prevent it jumping out but I appreciate that's a bit unorthodox.Lol Forrester Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Jumping out of first gear is not normal, unless you have a broken selector spring which is almost certainly your problem. They are straightforward to change, by removal of the selector shaft (the one on the right for first gear). It is very easy to drop the locating balls and springs into the gearbox unless you are very careful, but they usually come out easily with a magnet on a pole or by upturning the gearbox. To save having to repeat the excercise it is worth changing all three while you have access, and the second two are easy once you have leaned how to do it on the first! Be careful to check for easy selection of all gears; the selector rods have to be set in just the right place, so that the lever moves completely smoothly across the gate,
Robert Leigh
(21-05-2018, 11:00 AM)Robert LeighThanks for that; I\ll certainly look into it. Currently I'm holding the gearstick in first to prevent it jumping out but I appreciate that's a bit unorthodox.Lol Forrester Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Jumping out of first gear is not normal, unless you have a broken selector spring which is almost certainly your problem. They are straightforward to change, by removal of the selector shaft (the one on the right for first gear). It is very easy to drop the locating balls and springs into the gearbox unless you are very careful, but they usually come out easily with a magnet on a pole or by upturning the gearbox. To save having to repeat the excercise it is worth changing all three while you have access, and the second two are easy once you have leaned how to do it on the first! Be careful to check for easy selection of all gears; the selector rods have to be set in just the right place, so that the lever moves completely smoothly across the gate,
Robert Leigh
(21-05-2018, 11:00 AM)Robert LeighThanks for that; I\ll certainly look into it. Currently I'm holding the gearstick in first to prevent it jumping out but I appreciate that's a bit unorthodox.Lol Forrester Wrote: (21-05-2018, 07:57 AM)lolforre43 Wrote: I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
Lawrence Forrester Jumping out of first gear is not normal, unless you have a broken selector spring which is almost certainly your problem. They are straightforward to change, by removal of the selector shaft (the one on the right for first gear). It is very easy to drop the locating balls and springs into the gearbox unless you are very careful, but they usually come out easily with a magnet on a pole or by upturning the gearbox. To save having to repeat the excercise it is worth changing all three while you have access, and the second two are easy once you have leaned how to do it on the first! Be careful to check for easy selection of all gears; the selector rods have to be set in just the right place, so that the lever moves completely smoothly across the gate,
Robert Leigh
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Working out how to quote people on the forum so it actually works, is minimalist enough to flow and not be unduly repetitive in the thread is also something which we all still strive at, if we manage at all. :-) You seem to have mastered the worst bits of that, so Austin 7s probably will be mostly plain sailing after you get your head around it all.
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