Ulster/EA Sports build

[merlinart]

Hi  all

Are there any others currently or just about to commence a build up of an "Ulster" replica, in particular one of Rod Yates' bodies? I am about to strip a 1938 Ruby chassis and restore it.

I shall be using:

1) A Reliant 850 engine and gearbox.
2) Hydraulic brakes.

I shall be renewing all parts that require it including new springs and shock absorbers.

I shall be glad to share experiences and perhaps any who are doing a similar build up, might do likewise.

I should like to share experiences in hydraulic brakes and in general.

My email address is art@spitfireart.com My tel nos are 01273 843749, 07976 312058. I am in Ditchling East Sussex.

My intention is to do a build up blog. If anyone knows of other blogs, perhaps you'll kindly let me know please.

I build my own three wheelers at www.aerocyclecars.com

Looking forward to further news.

regards

Arthur

[Phil Kingdom]

Hi Arthur, Fitting a Reliant engine will involve a bit of chopping things around on a standard body, there are a couple of ways to fit the Reliant engine, it can be fitted sitting forward and high on top of the chassis and use the standard Ruby prop shaft or further back and between the chassis rails. I would suggest you have a test fitting of the engine and box on the rolling chassis, with all the components you will be using, steering box and so on in place, choose the setup you like the most, take a few measurements and have a word with Mr Yates to build your floor pan/ bulkhead to suite the chassis set up if that is possible.

[Malcolm Parker]

The Reliant OHV engine will not fit between the chassis rails unless it is moved back quite a bit.  It will cause a load of difficulties.  I would use an Austin 7 engine and gearbox.  Yes it might cost 3 or 4 thousand but the finished car could be worth £15 -20K as opposed to £7-10K.
An unfinished OHV Reliant engine A7 special would be worth even less.

[Austin in the Shed]

I agree with Malcolm,a 7 with a 7 engine would be more valuable,and desirable  than with the modern engine installed but of course its personal choice.
If you really want to go the Reliant route how about using the SWB ulster body set further back use a longer bonnet,move the front cross member back.
No need to cut the bulkhead about,engine should fit and its a better looking body too.
The white Ulster on the rear springs thread is I believe an example of this.

[merlinart]

I agree with Malcolm,a 7 with a 7 engine would be more valuable,and desirable  than with the modern engine installed but of course its personal choice.
If you really want to go the Reliant route how about using the SWB ulster body set further back use a longer bonnet,move the front cross member back.
No need to cut the bulkhead about,engine should fit and its a better looking body too.
The white Ulster on the rear springs thread is I believe an example of this.

Thanks for those, all ideas gratefully received.

I have been talking with Rod about all of this. Apparently someone makes a narrower sump that fits. I take the point about a trial fitting of course, and would do this anyway. Rod has suggested mounting the Reliant engine with a changed sump in the same position of the existing engine using precisely the same mounting positions but with different bracketry of course. He has a file on reliant fitting and has shown me pictures of mounting brackets. My idea is of course to keep the A7 engine/gearbox and rebuild both, such that should I sell the vehicle both engines could be made available or the correct engine put back in.

Of course it might not be this easy, so I await further investigation.

I have 2 Reliant engines/gearboxes. I recently cut the body off a Rialto and now have a rolling chassis reliant test bed, just need to weld up a platform for a seat and I can then drive the bare chassis around!

I steamcleaned the A7 chassis today so that I can see and decide upon my dismantling schedule after I've taken it over to see Rod who is 30 mins away.

regards



Arthur

[Alan]

Regardless of engine and it's position I'd look carefully at the idea of a short chassis body set well back on a long chassis. It's a bit more complex regarding pedals and steering, but nothing you won't be able to sort. It's just the long bonnet makes them look so much better.

[Phil Kingdom]

I have fitted my Reliant engine further back and between the chassis rails, this meant that the steering box also had to be moved back about 3 inches to clear the starter motor solenoid, if you were to go this route it would be just about right for a SWB body, but does mean a shortened prop, lengthened steering rod and on my build as I am using the original braking system a modified hand brake mechanism.


  engine mount.jpg (Size: 180.52 KB / Downloads: 427)

[merlinart]

Regardless of engine and it's position I'd look carefully at the idea of a short chassis body set well back on a long chassis. It's a bit more complex regarding pedals and steering, but nothing you won't be able to sort. It's just the long bonnet makes them look so much better.

Thanks Alan

Point taken, I will check this out with Rod as well. When you say long bonnet....on the assumption of 3" difference in wheelbase, will this now mean that if using a short body on a long chassis, that the bonnet needs to be 3" longer than the correct short body bonnet?

regards

Arthur

---

I have fitted my Reliant engine further back and between the chassis rails, this meant that the steering box also had to be moved back about 3 inches to clear the starter motor solenoid, if you were to go this route it would be just about right for a SWB body, but does mean a shortened prop, lengthened steering rod and on my build as I am using the original braking system a modified hand brake mechanism.

Thanks Phil.

Rod is talking about using the same mounting points on the chassis for the Reliant engine, using fabricated mounting brackets (he has photos and drawings) and a special sump. I have to say that I will bring this all up with him when I take my chassis over there.

Talking of steering box, did you go the Chris Gould route of a wedge (I've not yet looked at this closely) or I see that someone sells a new casting for a steering box, presumably at the lower angle to use existing mounting points. This latter box casting I note is £200.

regards

Arthur

[Ruairidh Dunford]

If you use the late steering box you can alter it to pretty much any angle you want without the need for a wedge - although you will need to check the angle as you face it, if you are moving it back further along the chassis.

[Austin in the Shed]

The LWB chassis is 6" longer than the SWB, 6 3" and 6 9"