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+--- Thread: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* (/showthread.php?tid=9304)
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Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - falcott - 13-04-2024
Hi all, I took the Special on a run yesterday. I haven't owned it long, and it ran like a top. I even saw 45mph! However a couple of times when I had to reverse there was a loud *clonk* underneath when I engaged the clutch, from the diff or driveshaft area. Not normal I would guess. Could it be worn splines or U joint? I'm going to jack it up to do the front brakes in the coming days, so this may be another job while I have the car in the air...
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - Dave Mann - 13-04-2024
I suggest as a starter that you check the tightness of the rear hubs.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - falcott - 13-04-2024
Will do, but it did sound like it came from underneath. Mind you, it is a car in which all parts are in close proximity.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - Tony Press - 14-04-2024
Another loose top of the torque tube ball joint, either a loose big ball (inject grease ) or the lower fitting on the chassis- adjust up.
Check your 'Woodrow' handbook.
Tony.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - falcott - 14-04-2024
(14-04-2024, 01:16 AM)Tony Press Wrote: Another loose top of the torque tube ball joint, either a loose big ball (inject grease ) or the lower fitting on the chassis- adjust up.
Check your 'Woodrow' handbook.
Tony.
Thanks for the tips Tony.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - David Stepney - 14-04-2024
The big ball (as Tony puts it) is adjustable. There is a serrated brass ring at the rear secured by two bolts. Removing the two bolts enables the ring to be turned to take up any slack. Make sure after adjustment that the mounting does not bind on the ball at any point. You can check this by releasing the lower mounting (cap nut and a very thin locking nut) and moving the top mounting to an fro.
It is often the case that, over the years, all the adjustment of the top ball has been taken up. One can overcome this by filing or turning about an eighth of an inch off the back of the mounting to give the brass ring more travel, or make up a shim to fit into the front of the mounting. It doesn’t need to be thick. I used a piece of 2mm steel for mine.
The lower mounting can be adjusted too. Just tighten the cap nut to take up the slack and tighten the locknut. Again check it doesn’t bind. If the lower ball mounted to the chassis is worn, I am pretty sure that replacements are available. The lower joint is greased via a drilling from the top mounting, but I makes sure that the lower joint is well packed with grease before reassembly.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - stuartu - 14-04-2024
If the torque tube ball joint is ok and the hubs are tight the other possibility is that the pinion drive flange is not completely secured. Its securing nut is revealed when you disconnect the rear propshaft joint.
Regards, Stuart
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - Peter Naulls - 14-04-2024
A loose drive flange on the gearbox gives a similar clonk, worth checking.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - falcott - 14-04-2024
Thanks guys, that's just the information I was looking for. I'll look into it shortly -- after the brakes.
(14-04-2024, 06:18 PM)Peter Naulls Wrote: A loose drive flange on the gearbox gives a similar clonk, worth checking.
I just checked out your website Peter. Some gorgeous work there! Well done.
RE: Driveshaft or diff *clonk* - squeak - 14-04-2024
To quote David
'The big ball (as Tony puts it) is adjustable. There is a serrated brass ring at the rear secured by two bolts. Removing the two bolts enables the ring to be turned to take up any slack. Make sure after adjustment that the mounting does not bind on the ball at any point. You can check this by releasing the lower mounting (cap nut and a very thin locking nut) and moving the top mounting to an fro'
There is often wear in the threads of the serrated ring such that after careful adjustment, when the 2 bolts are tightened the big ball locks up.