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+--- Thread: Rear Axel Leak ('37 Ruby) (/showthread.php?tid=6959)
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Rear Axel Leak ('37 Ruby) - Stephencrisp360 - 12-12-2021
Hi All,
I'm trying to remove the rear axel on my '37 Ruby. its leaking oil at a great rate from the joint and apparently the N/S end is damaged. I have a spare shell so plan to just remove the hub and carrier, remove the axel, split it and replace the shell that side with a new silicon seal in the middle (hopefully the crown and pinon will be in good condition.
Here's my question. So far I have removed the brakes and hub from the near side and now I have exposed the four bolts that hold the "plate" to the axle. What wrench size should I force onto these?
Steve
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Steve Jones - 12-12-2021
By 'plate', do you mean the brake back plate? If so, (and assuming the assembly is standard) the four set screws are 5/16" BSF thread and you need a 1/4" BSW spanner/socket to undo them. Whatever, you do not need to 'force' anything onto the set screws.
Steve
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Hedd_Jones - 12-12-2021
though you will need to strip down to this to rebuild your axle, you dont need to to get it off the car
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Stumpi - 12-12-2021
I have some odd ones on my 7 the thread is definitely 5/16 bsf but head size is 13mm.
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Stephencrisp360 - 12-12-2021
Thanks for the replies. Yes. I do mean the brake back plate (it wasn’t labeled in my Pitmans book)
None of my ww or imperials seem to be a good comfortable fit. So wanted advice before I went further.
I don’t need to take this off to get the axel off, but I figured I needed this off in the work I’m going to do. And it might be easier while still attached to the car.
Incidentally I note the leaf springs need replacing as they will currently suit a special.!!
Another job on its way
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Bob Culver - 13-12-2021
It is the sort of task simple if all is well but can grow into a saga, although not beyond the careful and thoughtful. The cw mesh is affected by the spacing of the cw. If bearing spacing is altered as will occur with a new lhs half, adjustemnt should be made just on the lhs (ns to Poms). Do not move the rhs side bearing.The bearings must not be over compressed, even momentarily. The ale asembly need not be withdawn so rhs hub need not be dismantled. But a chance to check the axle tapers and all that can lead to, hub seals, and maybe axle shaft seals. Hubs need only the races filled with grease. A lowered oil level is recommended for diff. Very many postings on axles and diffs.
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - squeak - 13-12-2021
to be certain of correct advice given, a picture of what you are proposing to do is vital. As allready said lots of trouble can come from incorrect gasket thicknesses down to failure to remove the hub grease plug. It's simple if we are on the same page.
If you're able (I'm not) draw an arrow on your image to indicate which bits.
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Stephencrisp360 - 13-12-2021
. I think it’s best if I take some pictures. But I did just realise that though dad said the shell thread was damaged that side, it clearly isn’t. So hopefully that renders the removal issue mute. Having said that. If the damage is on the drivers side. Simply changing the shell could be a challenge ? Steve
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Dave Mann - 13-12-2021
You may have to remove the brake back plate in order to remove the cotter pin which secures the spring pin.
MT 7 wiper motor 001.jpg (Size: 189.96 KB / Downloads: 211)
MT7.jpg (Size: 142.23 KB / Downloads: 211)
The MT7 is not a conventional motor with a commutator, it has a contact breaker which may need cleaning and adjusting, this motor is not self starting and requires the operating knob to be pulled (which makes the contact breaker operational) and spun to start it. The DW3 has a conventional motor and may need the commutator cleaning or brushes changing.
RE: Rear Axel Removal ('37 Ruby) - Bob Culver - 15-12-2021
Hi Stephen
Your last comment very apt, but nothing mystical involved. Just a need for patirnce and good mechanical observation and practice. My father was a plumber by trade and in his day had only Newnes books in the library to guide but very successfully managed diff, gearbox, engine bearing replacements with no butchered parts or threads or broken crankcase lip. If damaged "repair" of the rh thread in place may be practicable....esp if you have a good spare for next time.