The following warnings occurred:
Warning [2] Undefined property: MyLanguage::$archive_pages - Line: 2 - File: printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code PHP 8.1.28 (Linux)
File Line Function
/inc/class_error.php 153 errorHandler->error
/printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code 2 errorHandler->error_callback
/printthread.php 287 eval
/printthread.php 117 printthread_multipage



Austinsevenfriends
'35 Ruby lower water manifold - Printable Version

+- Austinsevenfriends (https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum)
+-- Forum: Austin Seven Friends Forum (https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=1)
+--- Forum: Forum chat... (https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=14)
+--- Thread: '35 Ruby lower water manifold (/showthread.php?tid=3792)

Pages: 1 2


'35 Ruby lower water manifold - Shuttle - 20-01-2020

Went to tackle a water leak and after draining I took a spanner to the manifold bolts. I thought they weren't very tight!

   

I now have a manifold I can't remove because the oil filler tube's in the way and that's resisting all efforts, so far, to unscrew it.
Any tips and advice welcome.


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - Chris KC - 20-01-2020

I think - like most problems - Ruairidh has a special tool for getting oil filler tubes out. I use a pair of mole grips with an old leather glove under the jaws to protect the filler. Turn the tube, not the fitting at the top. It's easier on a warm engine.

As for the manifold, wedge a chisel or screwdriver (or two) carefully into the gasket and lever it away from the block, trying to do as little damage as possible. Again a little heat might help. Don't let bits - or coolant - fall down the hole where the oil filler tube was... The aluminium manifold is readily replaceable, the block less so!

Once you have it off, various remedies are possible. Step one is to get the old stud out. Try not to break the thin casting it screws into. If possible clean the thread up and put in a new one. If damaged you might have to tap it out to take a 3/8" (stainless) stud or bolt. If the thin web breaks beyond redemption there are repair kits available from our 'cherished suppliers'.


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - Jeff Taylor - 20-01-2020

One of these could be useful for removing oil filler tubes:

https://www.axminster.co.uk/baby-boa-strap-wrench-015062


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - John Mason - 20-01-2020

I am sure on my Ruby there is a small grub screw in the crankcase where the oil filler tube screws in. This should be removed before trying to unscrew the oil filler tube. Again a Chris states a little heat from a blow lamp will assist in removing both.

John Mason


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - Chris KC - 20-01-2020

Earlier cars yes but not on Rubies I think John.


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - John Mason - 20-01-2020

Of course it is possible that my crankcase has come from an earlier engine sometime during its history but yes my 1935 Ruby engine has the grub screw for the oil filler pipe.

John Mason


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - Chris KC - 20-01-2020

I stand corrected!


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - charlie carpenter - 21-01-2020

The easy way to remove the oil filler tube is to use a oilfilter removal strap. If you do not have one a jubilee clip tighten round the tube can then be tapped round with a hammer


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - Ian Williams - 21-01-2020

John if you have a 35 engine with a grub screw securing the filler tube I respectfully suggest it has been modified, that or you are incorrect in your dating of the engine. A photograph will help clarify and I guess you could still teach me something that I don't know, but I have never seen or heard such an engine.


RE: '35 Ruby lower water manifold - John Mason - 21-01-2020

Sorry Ian as I have now lost most of my sight (don’t worry I don’t drive anymore) a photo is out of the question unless my son drops by. If the people in the know think it is an early crankcase they may well be right. Over the years many 7s have had stuff taken from other cars to keep them running and many parts can be used from one engine to another. The valves in the block however are of the hole and peg type rather than collets which I believe are correct for a 35 Ruby. But that’s the block and not the crankcase

John Mason