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+--- Thread: Oil filler neck (/showthread.php?tid=3036)
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RE: Oil filler neck - PedigreeChummy - 03-07-2019
Not what I wanted to read as I settle down for the evening.... but thanks, Simon. To be honest I think I'm in the clear. There was very little debris, ie. virtually nothing, and the studs seemed fine, so I'll put it back together tomorrow.
That being said I have now just incurred the wrath of the old car gods, who will conspire against be overnight to make it a complete can of worms by then...
RE: Oil filler neck - "Slack Alice" Simon - 03-07-2019
Blowback may be due to over filling. The level in the top tank always settles down a lot lower than I think it is.
About half an inch or so above the core.
So I always over fill, and lose a bit first time out.
Is your timing right?
Brake binding?
Hoses good? Old ones can collapse internally.
Over 35 degrees I would have the bonnet off or open, anyway.
Can the hot air escape from the engine compartment?
RE: Oil filler neck - Ian Williams - 03-07-2019
Side water inlets can become hideously blocked with crud leading to very serious overheating, on a car I did not know it would be one of the first things I would check to ensure its clear.
RE: Oil filler neck - Greig Smith - 04-07-2019
Flexible curtain rod, the stuff Beloved uses for hanging lace curtains and a battery drill are very handy things for cleaning out passages in blocks, heads, manifolds etc. You could use a bit of old bicycle brake cable outer coiled cable if you stripped the plastic off. I ground the end smooth on a grindstone so it had no sharp buts to hook on anything going into corners
Take a bit of time to inveigle (now there's a big sticky word like marmalade) the springy coiled wire around obstacles inside blocks etc, but is well worth it - NOT for radiator tanks as the rotating whipping of the flexible rod will bend the ends of the tubes closed.
Use in combination with a compressor & air gun and you will be quite surprised what is lurking in a seemingly clean block
Aye
Greig