Does anyone have an email address for Pigsty, I have been unable to contact by phone, voicemail not returned.

Alex, If you see this post are you able to let us know whats happening, is someone unwell?

I need some camfollowers regrinding, any suggestions please

Best Wishes

Gene

I'm going to be removing the rear wheels on my Ulster rep and wonder what others do when using a trolley jack to lift the rear of the car. I'm rather reluctant to use the diff housing as I would on a modern. Can a beam be laid across the jack to hit the frame rails without fouling the prop shaft? I just need it jacked up enough that I can put jack stands under the axle, unless there is another recommended placement for the latter.

Erich in Seattle.

can anyone give me details of the early speedometer drive for a 1926 car the metal pressing and the drive +pully size +details of the small shaft that drives the speedo cable I am at np12 1hy , is there anyone anywhere near me where I can go to see this drive system best regards robert regan.

In Spring 1931 Rupert Harding-Newman, an officer in the Royal Tank Regiment, drove an Austin Seven from Egypt (?) overland to England to attend a course at Bovingdon Camp. R.H-N went on to be a founder member of the LRDG, a Major-General, and died in 2007 in his 100th-year. Does anyone know the details of the route and the car (photos)?

I have a block (M163594) fitted with the later cover with a triangular groove for the gasket. The cork replacement is square section....do I have to attack it (carefully) and trim it to a triangular section or (unlikely I think) if I fit it over the groove and hope it stays in place and is squeezed into place....I don't think it will fit with the square section angled into the groove & the opposite angle forming a seal of sorts against the block
Can it be softened to force it into the groove?
Is it the wrong part?
When I removed the tappet cover it had the remains of both a carbonised gasket in the groove together with a flat gasket around the periphery of the tappet chest.
David

Date: 22-04-2018

New Forest Drive it Day Run, Hampshire

The Luzbourough Public House, Luzborough Lane, Romsey, Hampshire, SO51 9AA
(Note this is a change from previous years)

Organised by the New Forest Section of the Standard Motor Club, and open to all classics. Usually a good turn out of sevens (around 12 last year IIRC). No charge for participating, donations to the chosen charity appreciated.

Arrive from 10:30, for signing on, collecting route instructions, with coffee and Bacon Baps available.
Cars will set off from 11:30, for a leisurely drive through the New Forest, following the route instructions so you choose your own pace.
Finishing back at the Luzborough Public House around 14:00 where Sunday lunch is available if required (Booking when signing on in the morning is necessary).

I'm sure most of you (unless you have an engine that is completely oil tight) have had to replace the engine mounting rubbers on the later crankcases. I have lost count of the number of times I have replaced mine, mainly due to the generosity of my engine sharing its contents with the wider world. I have given up trying to make it oil tight and live with it as it is, accepting its foibles as part of life's great tapestry.

However I am getting fed up as it's happened again - the rubber mountings "blow" and split due to the oil contamination, rendering them useless:



Being generally tighter than the windows on a submarine I have thought about alternatives and have made myself some replacements, using polyethylene bar at 90 shore. It is machineable on the Myford providing you use a high speed and a lot of positive rake on the cutting tool, which must be as sharp as possible. It's not the easiest of material to secure due to its pliability but you can get a good enough grip if you use a rotating centre.

Anyway, it's peeing it down here today so I've been busy. I obtained a short length of poly bar from Direct Plastics in Sheffield, but I'm sure there are other stockists near you. Here's the result of my labours thus far:



I'm using a spare crankcase just for fitting purposes. The poly bar as you can see is red but the material can be painted if necessary. I think I'll leave mine as they are.





The job's not yet complete as I haven't yet turned the small inserts for the mountings - due to the flexible nature of the poly I'm going to have to bore it first and then mount the material on a mandrel so I can turn down the outside diameter. That'll be tomorrow's task if it's still raining...

My thanks to Ruairidh for the dimensions.

Looking through the 1934 Austin Seven Handbook, I notice a couple of anomalies between it and the very welcome advice I have received so far, both on here and from fellow PWA7 club members.

Firstly, gearbox oil - the handbook advises against using "thick" gear oil as this will lead to bearing seizure, but today most people seem to recommend GL-4 EP90 for the gearbox? Apologies to the old hands who may be yawning at this subject being brought up again, but reading the "Engine Oil" post from October last year it does seem that there are two schools of thought about what to use in the gearbox.

   

Secondly, upper cylinder lubricant - the handbook advises its use, but nobody has mentioned this to me as being worthwhile. Am I missing something, or is this recommendation just Austin doing a bit of promotion for the oil companies' products? (I've always considered things like Redex etc to be on a par with snake oil).

   

I want to wire up my AH tourer with period aluminium wound wire rather than use a braided made-up loom.  Does anyone have a list of sizes and lengths needed for the job?

I've had a couple of non-receipts of messages recently. Have others noticed problems? (which have been fine once things have been re-posted again)