Hello,
Would it be expected that an RM Saloon, without water pump, could operate in temperatures in excess of 35degrees C, without loss of significant amounts of coolant through the overflow vent?
Also, that the 22FZ carb. would not flood petrol through the top when normally it works well controlling the petrol level?
I am very interested to know if I have significant issues or I am expecting too much from an 89 year old car! (Its her birthday tomorrow! )

Chris

Hi,

My Ulsteroid has a C35M dynamo and what I believe is a CF3 cut-out.

Neither the dynamo, cut out or switch panel incorporate a ½ charge resistor so at present I only get any charge in the winter position.

I’ve seen various suggestions of winding an open coil of resistance wire and attaching it between the dynamo terminals but it’s all a bit vague and having an exposed coil sound a bit vulnerable especially if it's not wound on a core.

Is there a proprietary wire wound resistor I could use and what sort of resistance / current capacity would I need?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

John.

Does anyone have a single +60 thou piston in serviceable condition they're willing to part with... no rings needed. I'm trying to build up a spare engine for the ORT and have a block and three pistons...

TIA 

Nick

Enthusiasm for the Seven started early. One wonders if any records survive of early clubs?:

This is currently on eBay, hand-written on the back "1926": https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233667471670?ul_noapp=true

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Has anybody got any tips for removing the ball from the drop arm on an RN? I need to get the drag link off because it is bent (a little bit).

I've tried to shift the ball with one of those screw-on ball joint separators that you use on modern cars, but it is proving to be very stubborn. I can't believe such a tiny taper can have so much grip. Everything is oily, so no apparent rust, and it all looks too fragile to whack (unlike a modern steering joint), or even use one of those drive-on wedge separators..

I haven't tried heat yet because it's a bit claustrophobic under there to have a flame.

Am I missing something?

John

Good morning. According to yesterday's Daily Mail Nick Hewer ex Apprentice  and presenter of Countdown owns a 1931 Swallow and a 1936 Opal.

I know that David Steele the politician owned one but what other well known people have been smitten by the A7 bug?

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

has anyone tried one of these... or any of the other 6 1/2" fare?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-TRIUMPH-N...SwjVFe~YGp
Not sure what the bulb fitting is, but would save the faff of having to bond glass to new reflector units.

Hello all, just doing a trial fit of a semi-girling conversion from hydraulic. The shoes appear to have had the original spring mounting points removed so they pull straighter, so they're not entirely standard. My issue is that the springs I have seem to be very tight. I'm not sure if I have the wrong springs or if it's the modified shoes - picture below hopefully. I know brake shoe springs can be tight, but this is more than I've experienced before. I'm fairly cautious with springs so it might be a case of just needed to put a bit more effort in, but just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing!
attachment=10940]

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I may need a replacement head for my  1927  AD.Currently it has one marked  XL 1253 ED with priming plugs, would be nice to have like for like, but...
Not a late one though
W.H.Y?

My Ruby is in frequent use often covering 40 miles a day. Recently I noticed it was hesitant under load, normally towards the end of the 20-mile daily commute, sometimes popping on the overrun. It has gradually got worse and now fluffs /splutters between gear changes and struggles on hills. The first 5 miles of the journey are fine but this is gradually decreasing. Starts ok and idles fine, picks up from idle without hesitation runs well under minimal load.

I have changed the coil, condenser and rotor arm. Checked the points gap, checked battery voltage (6.4v). Plug leads are about 3 years old. Changed the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold gaskets, lagged the exhaust pipe, made a heat shield for the carb, cleaned the bowl, cleaned the emulsion block and checked the jets. Petrol is coming through clean and the tank has never had sealant in it. I've tried petrol from 2 different garages.

Each time out it gets slightly worse. What have I missed? Beginning to wonder if it could be a leaking head gasket? Any ideas appreciated.

Peter.