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The Joss Campbell Special
#21
What woulldlifebe without friendship
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#22
(05-06-2019, 09:01 AM)Ian Williams Wrote: Well Tony the spring is completely flat and there is no load on it yet and as I am sure you are aware they settle after being reset, it may end up with less leaves once the car is complete, so just a starting point at present. I had to make a spring wedge to get the castor sensible but thats not unusual, I will post some pictures of how we have stiffened the nose, my car is the same but with a whole lot more complication elsewhere!

Ian would you be able to provide some details regarding how you have adjusted the castor and immobilised one spring shakle on the Nippy axle? I presume you also dropped the radius arm mounting ball as well as the spring wedge. 
Many thanks in anticipation.
Bruce
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#23
This is one way of immobilizing the spring shackle with a triangle plate.  Terry.


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#24
My solution was to make a plate that took the place of one shackle, the pin is turned up from 7/16" steel and threaded into the plate in the same was as you would when refurbishing a shackle, the Joddle allows the plate to fit over the radius arm end and be installed behind the axle so as to retain a std appearance from the front. I machined up a thin wedge to go between the spring and chassis nose casting, and in this case as the radius arm ends are fabricated copies of Nippy/Ulster items I simply altered these slightly to retain the ball in the correct location. 
   
   
Black Art Enthusiast
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#25
Many thanks Terry and Ian for your engineering expertise. I will give that a go after I've finished with the diff.
Cheers Bruce
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#26
Sorry to thread drift - will delete this post when I know the answer, but still unsure, if one immobilizes one spring shackle, is it still preferable to remove one link on the other side and fasten shock arm direct to axle? and what about if you have a double shock arm?
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#27
Its not really thread drift because the question is relevant to the modification here Jon. Locking a shackle is a preferable way of locating the axle, it dispenses with the need to use the damper, which although works well enough promotes rapid wear of some of the damper components. Locking one side of a double damper will mess with roll centres, although for road use probably of little significance
Black Art Enthusiast
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#28
In your picture of the spring immobiliser Ian i'm obviously missing something. Are the top and bottom bolts not stationary and the middle one requiring a bush and grease nipple? cheers  Russell
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#29
I thought something looked 'off' .

The simple hard rubber block each end centres the assembly and doesn't require a workshop !
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#30
That's what I do Tony but the racing fraternity may require more precision ?  cheers  from sunny Qld
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