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Blown Head Gasket?
#11
Try a nyloc nut with a copper washer under it.Make sure the surface under the washer is clean.I think you will be lucky to pull these down to 25 lb ft without stripping or breaking a stud.
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#12
Having acquired a correct XL head for my '25 Chummy, I decided to fit it yesterday. Being a cheapskate I reused the head gasket but on start up it was obvious all was not well. I ran it for a short while, fascinated by the perfect " smoke " ( steam ) rings being puffed out of the radiator!! Removal of the head revealed 2 & 3 filled with water. Fitted a better looking gasket ( used! ) from my collection of around thirty and all was well. Change of oil revealed no water contamination.
I always clean the stud washer surfaces of paint on a newly painted head. Torque down to 15 initially and then to 20 max. Never more.
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#13
"David S, I have checked the nut tightness and they are still at 20 ft/lb however is it meant to be 25 ft/lb?"

Mark,

I don't think the torque is too critical, so long as the nuts are tight. Certainly no more than 25 ft/lbs. I note that the 'Red Book' (Woodrow) recommends 18 ft/lbs. So would assume that 20 is OK. As I said in my previous post, if the engine ticks over evenly, and the compressions feel about even, then I wouldn't worry unduly. The car will soon tell you if it isn't happy.

Regards,
David.
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#14
25ftlbs is too much. It will distort the top face of the block and cause problems. If both surfaces are flat, a torque of 18ftlbs is enough to seal the joint. If it won’t, the real answer is to fix what’s wrong, not wind the head studs up further.
One thing that’s often forgotten is there is a leak path up through the thread of the stud. You need to apply thread sealant to the stud before it’s wound in to the block.
Alan Fairless
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