Ruby engine removal?

[Derek Sheldon]

Ok, apologies . 
To line up the splines. I turn the engine so that the blind spline is on the top, I then put the gear box in fourth gear and rotate the box so that also is on top, I then mark the gear box output fixing so that I know if it has moved and can correct if it has. Never had a problem since using this method. I prefer engine and box out together but have successfully accomplished removing engine from gear box and viseversa .

[John Mason]

My trick with the blind spline is to put the gearbox in neutral and have a mate slowly crank the engine over whilst I line up the engine and gearbox. Once the clutch lines up with the blind spline it all just slides together. Once the bell housing is in place secure with the nuts.

John Mason

[Darren D]

You're well on your way already Darren. Just systematically disconnect everything connected to it. Have you got the A7 companion? There is sound advice within. The gearbox is just a ring of nuts to undo around the bell housing and it slides free - owners in the know leave off the nuts which are hard to get at! 
I would pause to think about what you want to come out with it. For example you could remove the starter and dynamo making it lighter to lift, but you may prefer to leave them undisturbed.
Dare I ask why you want the engine out? You might find whatever you want to do is manageable in situ.

Hi Chris. I've already taken the dynamo off to be overhauled by Vince. I'm getting the engine out to be fully overhauled and then deal with the surface rust in the engine bay. Gearbox is good.

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I’m with Chris K C, a dodle. My procedure is well documented.

Ok — you pays your money and you takes your pick. I have also done this quite a few times when sorting out my clutch and agree it can be done fairy easily if you have some experience. I just got the impression that Darren was new to things.

Charles

Your right Charles I'm very new to this. I think I'll take them out together and deal with them outside the car.

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Thank you very much for the information guys. I think an engine hoist and taking both engine and gearbox out together is the way forward for me. Again thanks for your help guys.

[Charles Levien]

The little trick I have always found useful when aligning the blind spline is to set the gearbox spline at, say, 12 o'clock, set the fywheel to match. At that point, you then mark the flywheel with a chalk mark that will show if the flywheel has moved at all. Not guaranteed, but it does seem to help for me...

Also helps to engage top gear — stops the female side moving.

[Chris KC]

In that case Darren yes engine out for sure!
Just take lots of pics and notes as it will all look very unfamiliar a few months from now (optimist) when you come to put it back in again.

[dickie65]

On a Ruby prop shaft if the sliding spline is at the front the knurled nut car be undone and the shaft slid apart. saves having to fight with the flange bolts.
Then it can be done properly on the bench.

[Chris KC]

On a Ruby prop shaft if the sliding spline is at the front the knurled nut car be undone and the shaft slid apart. saves having to fight with the flange bolts.
Then it can be done properly on the bench.

Interesting idea. Just make sure not to alter the relationship between the front and rear joints when re-assembling...

[Bob Kneale]

After years of lining up the clutch master spline with the gearbox bell housing wobbling on the short crankcase studs, I came up with the following:-

make a couple of long (6" or so) studs to fit to the top crankcase stud locations, to provide 'guide rails' on which to slide the gearbox assembly on to the engine. With top gear engaged it takes only a minute or so to get the clutch to slide into engagement. I don't bother with the centering tool - assemble the clutch cover loosely and you have enough wiggle room to get it correctly centred, and then you carefully tighten the cover, and lock the tabs. The long studs can be removed and the originals refitted.
Haven't tried it with the engine in the car - slightly shorter studs may be necessary.
Hope to be able to attach an image.
Good luck
Bob

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    try this attempt!

[AustinWood]

I support the engine and gearbox bell housing on a piece of wood on a jack. Raise the jack until the faces are parallel. the cutch splines will then be in line.

[Steve kay]

After years of lining up the clutch master spline with the gearbox bell housing wobbling on the short crankcase studs, I came up with the following:-

make a couple of long (6" or so) studs to fit to the top crankcase stud locations, to provide 'guide rails' on which to slide the gearbox assembly on to the engine. With top gear engaged it takes only a minute or so to get the clutch to slide into engagement. I don't bother with the centering tool - assemble the clutch cover loosely and you have enough wiggle room to get it correctly centred, and then you carefully tighten the cover, and lock the tabs. The long studs can be removed and the originals refitted.
Haven't tried it with the engine in the car - slightly shorter studs may be necessary.
Hope to be able to attach an image.
Good luck
Bob

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try this attempt!

I only found this method on the forum late last year, and wish I'd thought of it years ago! It genuinely does reduce the procedure to a couple of minutes, so many thanks. I may belong to the elderly arthritic fingers brigade, but lining up engine and gearbox in the car always defeated me. Whip then both out, in due course join them back together on the bench and lower back in. Wine rack remains almost full, swear box almost empty.