Ruby engine removal?

[dickie65]

Anyone with a Type 65 or Nippy will know the fun of getting the engine in with the deep sump.
Gearbox has to go in first.
The engine can not be tilted in it has to be dropped in slightly nose down the bell housing studs be tight against the bulkhead.
At this point I am with Bob and leave the cover plate loose till its all lined up.
I gave up trying to pre line up the splines years ago I just rotate things till it slips into place.

[jansens]

On my special I found treating the gearbox and engine as one thing was easier. I have restricted access to the foot wells so it is tricky fiddling with the gearbox in there. With a lifting eye screwed into number 4 cylinder and the starter and dynamo off the engine I found the engine and box balances perfectly level from a chain. I need to angle the gearbox down very steeply to get it in under the firewall but you can tip it up easily. I have an alloy sump but not the extra deep kind so it fits in no problem.The trickiest thing for me is getting the clutch pedal lever under the firewall edge, as all the scratches on it will now show!

Simon

[Denis Sweeney]

This post dates back quite a while now, but is very relevant to myself today.
I have removed the engine from my early Ruby by stripping all the front end of the car and all items attached to the engine, distributor, dynamo, carb, manifolds etc etc then disconnected the gearbox and moved it back as far as I could, but still could not find anyway to get engine out. 
I had removed the rear engine fixing bolts but then had to raise the front end to clear the front studs, however in doing so the block and head very quickly clashed with the bulkhead and despite all efforts could not get the front end high enough to clear the studs and ended up removing the head and block in situ before I could get the crankcase out.
Is there a trick I am missing somewhere??
I now have the block back from the honing man and am beginning to put everything back together.
I removed the engine piece meal, but hope to cadge the use of an engine lift to help getting it back in one piece, but how, what’s the secret?
Cheers

[Bluebird7]

Undo all 4 of the engine mounting bolts, and lift the front of the engine and remove the 2 front 'studs', as the engine needs to both tilted and pulled forwards to clear the front suspension casting.

[John Mason]

Dennis, If you can remove the front end mounting studs (A little heat on them and a good stud removal tool helps.) You should be able to get the fully assembled engine back in. Some people do a mod so that bolts can be used at the front instead of studs. Another way to get more room when taking the engine out is to remove the accelerator linkage that run across the bottom of the bulk head.

John Mason. Hello

[Ruairidh Dunford]

There is normally no need to remove the studs.

This has certainly been the case for the hundreds I have removed and installed, perplexed at why you are encountering difficulties?

[Denis Sweeney]

Thanks Bluebird, but that is exactly what I tried to do, rear bolts removed, split pins and nuts removed from the front studs, I then tried lifting the front end but was limited because the block/head fouled the bulkhead preventing me raising the front end any higher but at the same time could not move the engine any more forward to clear the front studs. Hence I removed the block in situ.

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The front studs have been removed once the engine was out.