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Improving feet space in a Special
#11
Greig, annealing the aluminium makes a massive difference. I soot over it with a smoky acetylene flame then heat it up to the point the soot burns off and it's in the right annealed state. I've heard of people using soap on the panel too I think? Working it of course hardens it again. Sometimes you need to re-anneal it.

I wouldn't use copper pipe if I could avoid it for that reason. Any vibrations 'work' the pipe and it hardens and will eventually crack. You can get cupro-nickle piping from a car brake place usually. I need to visit my local one to get some pipe for the fuel lines and also for the lines to the oil filter.

You could make a blister from fibreglass. Make a wooden buck type thing from MDF shaped how you want. Then cover the whole thing in tin foil and lay over the fibreglass (I'd use strips of woven cloth) on top of that (the foil is so the fibreglass won't stick to the wood). I'd put the blister on top of a flat piece of wood so you can lay the fibreglass cloth over it to make a flange all around it that you trim later.

Simon
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#12
"Sharpie" pens are good for annealing since the ink disappears at the right temperature. Cheapo 1050 grade ali doesn't really work harden and stays soft enough to work. 3003 grade is semi-hard and hardens when worked whilst 5251 is bloomin' hard until annealed. I'd save the 5251 for flat panels since it is a bit too much for forming, although does make lovely smooth finishes.
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#13
I have a collection of pedal blisters left over from demonstrations. Yours for the cost of postage...send me a PM
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