Size of socket for half shaft nuts?

[Joe eck]

I have a1937 Ruby and I am conscious that I should be checking the tightness of the half shaft nuts.
I do not have a socket big enough so will have to purchase one !!!
Could anybody let me know what size socket will be required ?
Thanks
Joe.

[bob46320]

Mine is marked 7/8 BSF or 3/4 Whit (worth). If your pocket is deep enough, perhaps get a socket with a 3/4" drive and "T" bar to go with it as you do really have to lean on these to get the right torque. Having said that, I use a 1/2" bar with a lump of gas pipe to extend it. You will also need to make / get a bar which will block the hub from turning whilst you do the nut up. Various patterns exist. Now ignore everything I have said and read this instead !!!

http://www.ba7c.org/technicalArticles/hubsRear.html

BobH

[Stuart Giles]

the later halfshaft nuts your car will have are 3/4" Whitworth 11/16" BSF. But as BSF/Whit sockets aren't easy to find nowadays, a 33mm socket will also be a pretty well perfect fit.

[Joe eck]

Thanks Bob / Stuart.
I have made a hub securing jig , so I will now go on the hunt for a suitable socket and set about some strong arm work.
Many thanks for the info.
Joe.

[Martin Prior]

Mine is marked 7/8 BSF or 3/4 Whit (worth).  If your pocket is deep enough,  perhaps get a socket with a 3/4" drive and "T" bar to go with it as you do really have to lean on these to get the right torque.  Having said that, I use a 1/2" bar with a lump of gas pipe to extend it.  You will also need to make / get a bar which will block the hub from turning whilst you do the nut up.  Various patterns exist.  Now ignore everything I have said and read this instead !!!

http://www.ba7c.org/technicalArticles/hubsRear.html

BobH

I would go with Ian Moorcroft's advice on the BA7C site.  An excess of brute force isn't necessary.  I've only ever used a standard ring spanner on hub nuts - no extension bar - although  I will admit to usually giving it one sharp tap with a 4lb hammer to finish.  Both the RP and the PD have covered at least 40k since the hubs were last re-assembled with no need to re-tighten the nuts.

[Colin Wilks]

How tight is tight? 

I recall reading somewhere that 150 lbs/ft is a good guide and this is the figure I'm planning on using when I do my hubs for the first time.

Does anyone with experience AND a torque wrench have a value in mind?

Having posed this question I have to say I think it's much more important to ensure the hub and taper are well matched by lapping and that the Woodruff key is a good fit (i.e. not at all loose, but not binding either).

[Bob Culver]

Over the decades the nuts on my car were tightend with a 12 inch Crescent without any hammering etc. The original axles were in place at 110,000 and no problems with successors, except very difficult to pull apart!

[Tom the Blacksmith]

Hi Joe,

I found 3/4 Whit and 7/8 Bsf sockets hard to find but 1 5/16 AF a close fit and much easier to come across, I found a 1/2" drive one in an army surplus for £4. 

Tom

[Stuart Giles]

I use a 30" breaker bar to tighten the halfshaft nuts. On one occasion, just out of curiosity, I put my 3/4" drive torque wrench on an already tightened nut. I had the dial up to 100 lb ft without any movement; just as well as I had lined up the split pin hole already .  

As said, the prime thing is a good fit between the shaft and hub, it's worth spending a bit of time lapping the hub to the shaft if engineers blue or chrome yellow doesn't show a decent contact area. I also use an equivalent goop to  Loctite 641 on the shaft to hub joint, and they've always come apart OK with the correct persuasion.

[Hedd_Jones]

You'll probably pick up a suitable whit ring spanner up at a steam rally for less than a fiver. It will be approx 15 inches long which gives ample leverage IMO. Particularly if you use your feet.