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Upgrades and improvements for longevity
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Upgrades and improvements for longevity
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05-10-2018, 11:29 AM
And yet wasn't that what finished it Ruairidh? I last saw the film at least a decade ago but I believe they lashed the block down with a half-shaft and brake cables in the end
That's not to say it wasn't a good mod - only that one way or another a Seven block and crankcase will find a way to separate given time. 
05-10-2018, 11:37 AM
No idea Chris, I only have experience of using the cap screws.
R 
05-10-2018, 12:35 PM
The engine in my chummy is built up with studs in the crankcase. Also on the nosecone and dynamo etc. I think it works well except perhaps the long dynamo stud which seems very prone when the dynamo is off.
The spreader plate is an excellent addition. Perhaps a slight mod for those who want an original looking sump with the stiffness of the cast ali sumps would be to profile cut a thicker spreader plate, cut off the pressed bit of the steel sump and weld the thicker one on. Much as I liked the extra oil and stiffness of the ali sump on my special, I suspect that removing an engine with one fitted in a unmolested Austin bodied car would be impossible (or very difficult) without removing the sump first. Ruairidh, I guess the seven workshop gaskets are quite hard silicone? So they don't compress a huge amount? If so I shall have to enquire as to the maker. I have use for such a material soon.
05-10-2018, 01:19 PM
The semi deep cast sumps I mention above are designed to overcome the issue with the full deep dumps you highlight Hedd - they certainly do not need to be removed to extract the engine.
The gaskets work, cannot comment on how squishy they are without some sort of comparison.
05-10-2018, 02:48 PM
How much do they squish versus their original thickness.
To 50% of their original thickness? more? or less?. As measured roughly using mk1 eyeball would provide sufficient info for me 
05-10-2018, 03:07 PM
05-10-2018, 03:31 PM
I suggest you contact Jamie direct as these are not yet on the website.
05-10-2018, 05:46 PM
I have a shallow aluminium sump on my car. I gave up with the tin ones as all mine had, or quickly developed, pin holes. The aluminium ones seal with no problems and also improve the rigidity of the crankcase.
I don't use a gasket but stick it on with ThreeBond 1184. This holds very tightly and further improves the rigidity. I use ThreeBond 1184, again with no gasket, for the block to crankcase. I am of the opinion that having as rigid a joint here as possible reduces the chance of the block coming loose. Even a very small movement on the joint increases the forces on the studs dramatically. A friend was helping Chris Gould's 10000 mile record attempt and told me about the block being held down with a brake cable.
Jim
05-10-2018, 06:11 PM
(05-10-2018, 05:46 PM)AustinWood Wrote: I have a shallow aluminium sump on my car. I gave up with the tin ones as all mine had, or quickly developed, pin holes. The aluminium ones seal with no problems and also improve the rigidity of the crankcase.Reading the technical bulletin for TB1184 it sounds ideal. How do you find disassembly? The bulletin does not mention this.
05-10-2018, 06:24 PM
(05-10-2018, 02:48 PM)Hedd_Jones Wrote: How much do they squish versus their original thickness. I would say less than 50% by a way. Colin, I have used the three bond compound that Jim mentions and it is very good but a real begger to clean up 'if' you have to remove it (which I am sure we hope never to have to do), the silicone gasket I picture above comes apart easily and can be reused. |
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