All Alloy Cup progress

[AllAlloyCup]

The Nyalic product looks a possibility .

One spray can will do 9sq metres and it’s
“Self levelling” costs about £30-£40 which is OK for a whole car.
How it gets removed may be an issue as it’s a thermoplastic,
Especially if I ever want to paint the car.

Thanks for the tips though, I may do some sample
Parts before fully committing .

Regards

Bill G

[Colin Reed]

The Nyalic product looks a possibility .

One spray can will do 9sq metres and it’s
“Self levelling” costs about £30-£40 which is OK for a whole car.
How it gets removed may be an issue as it’s a thermoplastic,
Especially if I ever want to paint the car.

Thanks for the tips though, I may do some sample
Parts before fully committing .

Regards

Bill G

HI Bill,
There is no need to remove as it can be painted over it then just acts as a primer

Cheers
Colin

[AllAlloyCup]

More work on the engine for the AllAlloyCup
Bolted up the rods on the steel crank
and started inserting new studs all round with
Threadlock.

Missing a few studs so will have to order them up.
Onto relining the clutch next and sorting out the 
the front cover plate and starting handle.

Using an alloy high compression Ricardo head
And planning to get the engine running with a Ruby 
exhaust manifold with a 1” early Morris 8 1” SU.
May revert to an original manifold and carb set-up
later.



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[Tony Press]

More work on the engine for the AllAlloyCup
Bolted up the rods on the steel crank
and started inserting new studs all round with
Threadlock.

Missing a few studs so will have to order them up.
Onto relining the clutch next and sorting out the 
the front cover plate and starting handle.

Using an alloy high compression Ricardo head
And planning to get the engine running with a Ruby 
exhaust manifold with a 1” early Morris 8 1” SU.
May revert to an original manifold and carb set-up
later.

A lovey little engine isn't it - and your pictures show it at its best

[AllAlloyCup]

First fitting of the radiator, adjusting the feet that it sits on
And sorting out the number plate brackets.

I hand painted the lettering after using
white tracedown paper( like carbon paper only white)
To get the outlines of a font found on the Internet.

Hoping to rivet the clutch linings tomorrow
with Neil M as he’s got his to do as well.

Ordered up the remaining engine studs and 
a load of armoured wiring to do over the 
next few weeks.

Regards

Bill G

   

[David.H]

First fitting of the radiator, adjusting the feet that it sits on
And sorting out the number plate brackets.

I hand painted the lettering after using
white tracedown paper( like carbon paper only white)
To get the outlines of a font found on the Internet.

Hoping to rivet the clutch linings tomorrow
with Neil M as he’s got his to do as well.

Ordered up the remaining engine studs and 
a load of armoured wiring to do over the 
next few weeks.

Regards

Bill G

What font did you use?
I will try & find "tracedown paper" ...do you use it as a stencil?
I quite fancy painting the numbers....by hand or rattle can?
Lovely job, by the way

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi David,

I posted some info on this in an earlier post

Here is the link to the font web site.

I got the tracedown paper in HobbyCraft

Regards
Bill g

Ps these number plates are hand painted
But the base plate was Powder coated

   

---

Excellent number plate font - AllAlloyCup -  15-02-2018 

For those keen types who like to do their own typography 
On their numberplates, can I recommend 
a visit to www.lineto.com and try out the
LUTZ Headline font. Just type in your reg number and
They kindly email you back an image in 64pt.

Then size to suit your plate for handpainting!
NB there are legal sizes for lettering and spacing.
See the DVLA or other number plate websites.
Usually letters 88mm high x 63mm wide, spacing at 11mm.
These sizes suitable for prewar cars.

Daft fonts are illegal but this one should be OK.
Usual disclaimers as regards accuracy apply!

Regards

Bill G
( ex BBC TV Typeface buyer!) 

[John Mason]

If you are not to good with hand painting such as shaky hand. For number plates you can start off by spraying your number plate white then when dry and hard stick on the registered number with self adhesive numbers and letters. Spray the number plate again but this time in black covering the plate and numbers etc ( perhaps one, two or three coats) then when dry peel of the self adhesives letters and numbers to reveal a white on black number plate.

John Mason.

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi John
It does take a steady hand to hand paint them, but it
was the only way I could get a font that I liked.

Your technique would work ok if you could get a signmaker
to cut the font of your choice in foil.

Regards

Bill G

[Dave Wortley]

I painted a few number plates a long time ago but my hand gets too shaky so now I cut them out of 3mm ali sheet. A nice steady job to do in the early morning when I don't want to make noise.