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Location: The Scottish Border
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With the new steel crank in place in the crankcase, I thought
I’d measure up how much I need to cut
off the long starting handle shaft that came in the box of bits.
One size seems to be 7 7/8th for a coil engine
But I thought I’d measure up in situ ( about 7 1/2”) as
The rad shell position is now Fixed!
So now need to cut the shaft and mill a flat into the shaft
For the cotter pin that secures the handle,
Making sure that it “parks” correctly.
Assembling and fitting pistons next
While waiting for bits to fit the tail cover.
Regards
Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 320 Threads: 31
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Location: The Scottish Border
02-11-2018, 02:42 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-11-2018, 02:44 PM by AllAlloyCup.)
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Just fitted the bootlid, with two GE Cup catches
alloy facings and both an external and internal rubber seals.
To create a neat edge on the perimeter of
of the bootlid I’ve used a small half round
Alloy bead rivetted into the boot edge.
All non standard but this a GE Cup Special
Rather than a Replica.
Now onto the rear number plate and
the wiring.
Regards
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 320 Threads: 31
Reputation:
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Location: The Scottish Border
GH
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Made further progress on body details today.
Decided to put the 13mm alloy bead round the doors to emulate
the fabric piping on original fabric bodied Cups.
Rivetted the beading on using a jig made from an old pair of Molegrips
with 1/8” flush csk alloy rivets.
I’ve mounted the numberplate and lamps
slightly higher to keep them clear of road muck
And at a height where following modern motorists are
used to looking!
Hope to do the other door tomorrow.
Regards
Bill G
(Aka AllAlloyCup)
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 419 Threads: 52
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Location: New Forest
Car type: 1928 Mulliner Fabric Saloon
Coming along in leaps and bounds Bill.
It's looking great.
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Car type: '29 Bitza
Looking great. Any thoughts on likely difference in eventual weight between the two construction routes; GE original and as pictured?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 320 Threads: 31
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Location: The Scottish Border
Hi Jon
I think? The skin will be lighter and stronger
But I’ve used 1” ash ( instead of 3/4”)and slightly heavier marine ply for the bulkheads and floor
So possibly not much in it?
Regards
BillG
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 320 Threads: 31
Reputation:
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Location: The Scottish Border
On reflection it should be quite a bit lighter
as the wings are also aluminium, as are the flitch plates
undersills and battery box.
I reckon there’s also a kg of screws etc as I was forever
buying more!
Will try the bathroom scales method as proposed by Jim
Once the engine and gearbox are in.
Regards
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 320 Threads: 31
Reputation:
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Location: The Scottish Border
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Spent this afternoon with lots of Scotchbrite
and “brushed up” the completed Cup body and
4 wings.
Once it’s had a full trial assembly with wing
piping etc, I’ll decide if I am going to paint the wings black.
Any ideas on keeping the aluminium tidy or
Just let it weather gracefully?
Regards
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 952 Threads: 128
Reputation:
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Car type: '29 Bitza
what about a max protection wax like ankor?