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AllAlloyCup progress
#21

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With the new steel crank in place in the crankcase, I thought 
I’d measure up how much I need to cut 
off the long starting handle shaft that came in the box of bits.
One size seems to be 7 7/8th for a coil engine
But I thought I’d measure up in situ ( about 7 1/2”) as
The rad shell position is now Fixed! 

So now need to cut the shaft and mill a flat into the shaft
For the cotter pin that secures the handle,
Making sure that it “parks” correctly.

Assembling and fitting pistons next
While waiting for bits to fit the tail cover.

Regards

Bill G

Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#22

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Just fitted the bootlid, with two GE Cup catches
alloy facings and both an external and internal rubber seals.

To create a neat edge on the perimeter of
of the bootlid I’ve used a small half round
Alloy bead rivetted into the boot edge.

All non standard but this a GE Cup Special
Rather than a Replica.

Now onto the rear number plate and 
the wiring.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#23
GH
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Made further progress on body details today.
Decided to put the 13mm alloy bead round the doors to emulate
the fabric piping on original fabric bodied Cups.

Rivetted the beading on using a jig made from an old pair of Molegrips
with 1/8” flush csk alloy rivets.

I’ve mounted the numberplate and lamps 
slightly higher to keep them clear of road muck
And at a height where following modern motorists are
used to looking!
Hope to do the other door tomorrow.

Regards
Bill G
(Aka AllAlloyCup)
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#24
Coming along in leaps and bounds Bill.
It's looking great.
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#25
Looking great. Any thoughts on likely difference in eventual weight between the two construction routes; GE original and as pictured?
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#26
Hi Jon

I think? The skin will be lighter and stronger
But I’ve used 1” ash ( instead of 3/4”)and slightly heavier marine ply for the bulkheads and floor
So possibly not much in it?

Regards

BillG
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#27
On reflection it should be quite a bit lighter
as the wings are also aluminium, as are the flitch plates
undersills and battery box.
I reckon there’s also a kg of screws etc as I was forever
buying more!

Will try the bathroom scales method as proposed by Jim
Once the engine and gearbox are in.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#28

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Spent this afternoon with lots of Scotchbrite
and “brushed up” the completed Cup body and 
4 wings.

Once it’s had a full trial assembly with wing
piping etc, I’ll decide if I am going to paint the wings black.

Any ideas on keeping the aluminium tidy or
Just let it weather gracefully?

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#29
what about a max protection wax like ankor?
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#30
Bill, If you are just using the TR as a shelf, may I have it? ... please  Tongue
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