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AllAlloyCup progress
#11
The piping performs a number of useful purposes - I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Whatever you do, don't take my word for it!

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#12

.jpeg   EAD092E8-0BD3-4D87-B6EB-EC5FC417447B.jpeg (Size: 53.99 KB / Downloads: 244)

Hi Ruairidh 

My understanding of the body mounted 
piping is that it is designed to stop water 
From the bodyskin entering the boot, plus
Providing a closing edge that the boot lid edge
Mates to. Given the weight of the lid+ spare wheel the lid needs
to be positively located as well, which perhaps
the piping is supposed to help prevent.

If not you get chafing and stressing on the hinges and frame.
Though the spare wheel itself , if a neat fit in both matching 
apertures should steady the whole tail assembly.
Early Cups had two boot catches so keeping the tail assembly
Steady, so must have been a concern.

Regards

Bill G

See attached photos:


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Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#13
That is my understanding too Bill.

Add also covering of body gaps/differences in profiles.
Whatever you do, don't take my word for it!

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#14
I made my own piping using either 3/8 or 5/16 vacuum/washer pipe. The panel gap was not consistent enough to use a standard piping.

Bill, I notice that the boot skin does not turn over the back of the ply (I.e. is trimmed to the face of the ply). On my car, the aluminium skin is tacked on to the back of the ply, not on the edges. Some care will need to be taken to ensure that water does not get into the boot skin.

Peter
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#15
Hi Peter,

This alloy skin was made away from the car body
so it is temporarily screwed to the base to allow for
Adjustments.
I’m about to remove the skin from the frame and then adjust a few things,
Plus the skin itself may need a small amount of stretching and shrinking..
I have a plan to seal the edge and finish it neatly but am
Waiting on some materials before I finally commit to
Fitting and fastening it all permanently.

As it’s a”Special” rather than a pure replica
I have some degrees of freedom with my own
Design.

Bill
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#16
(10-10-2018, 11:11 AM)Peter Johnson Wrote: I made my own piping using either 3/8 or 5/16 vacuum/washer pipe. The panel gap was not consistent enough to use a standard piping.

Bill, I notice that the boot skin does not turn over the back of the ply (I.e. is trimmed to the face of the ply). On my car, the aluminium skin is tacked on to the back of the ply, not on the edges. Some care will need to be taken to ensure that water does not get into the boot skin.

Peter

That’s my approach as well - the piping is noticeably bigger than standard wing piping etc. and for good reason.

Water ingress would be a real concern to me.
Whatever you do, don't take my word for it!

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#17
So far, I have been quite pleased. The piping directs rain around the opening rather than into the boot. The boot area stays surprisingly dry but does rely on the piping touching the boot lid around its perimeter.

I have used a neutral cure Dow Corning sealant on all the nail heads under the aluminium facing plates in an effort to reduce corrosion. I have used this on the nail heads under the body too. It dries to a Matt black finish, not that you can see it.

Peter
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#18
Hi Peter and Ruairidh

Thanks for the constructive warnings.
Nothing has been finally decided about
this bootlid joint yet.

I’m aiming to get as close a fit as possible.
So it may take a week or so to figure it out for the
Unique alloy body build that I embarked on 3 years ago.

I always knew the tail and it’s fitting would be tricky!

Happy motoring!

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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#19
I guessed a snug fit would work (the ones I have seen have rather pleasing suck in when closing!) - my concern about ingress, above, would be if the piping was not there.
Whatever you do, don't take my word for it!

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#20
I have just found the photo I was looking for. The piping was made up using 5mm washer hose.

Peter
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