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AllAlloyCup progress
Thanks Simon

That’s a good plan as the posts are enclosed
Under a metal cover.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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(23-12-2018, 09:46 AM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: My physics should be better really but
If you had a rectangular flat fuse rated at 30 amp
And you cut it in half, along its length would that then give you a
2 x 15 amp fuses?

Presumably any fuse wire needs to be rated at 6v?
As it’s the power = V x A that would determine the energy
needed to melt the fuse material.

Someone smarter than me will know?

Regards

Bill G

No - see the discussion (s) in earlier forum posts.
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I'd wrap the wire around the pins a few times before soldering to give a good mechanical connection then just flow a bit of solder over to make it all tight.

Simon
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(23-12-2018, 09:46 AM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: My physics should be better really but
If you had a rectangular flat fuse rated at 30 amp
And you cut it in half, along its length would that then give you a
2 x 15 amp fuses?

Presumably any fuse wire needs to be rated at 6v?
As it’s the power = V x A that would determine the energy
needed to melt the fuse material.

Someone smarter than me will know?

Regards

Bill G

Bill, the power V x A is the total power that creates heat or magnetism anywhere in the circuit. Most of this is at the headlight/horn/motor and not at the fuse. To calculate the heat produced at the fuse you use the formula    Amps squared x resistance in ohms. So voltage doesn't come into it.
And yes, slicing your 30 amp fuse would make two 15 amp fuses. You would be doubling the resistance, but also halving the power required to 'blow' the fuse.

Hope I got this right! I was very good at O level physics, but that was 48 years ago.
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    The temperature in the garage today reached 10 C so decided
to try fit the bulkhead and it’s wiring loom that I’ve worked on 
in the “hoose” over the Festive period.

Using armoured cabling from the 7 Workshop plus old GPO
Bakelite connector boxes to link up the sub looms tidily.
Looks like I need to buy a battery soon to test my wiring up!

Planning to go all LED on the lamps.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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Looking good Bill. I think you may need to employ a door-kicker...?
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Hi Duncan

At least my car has doors! :-)

The doors are also try fitted and I’ve still to finalise
the locks and handles,plus will try to pass the Duncan Door Fit Test!

Happy Pembling! Is the Dixi driveable yet?

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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It's still at the auto-sparks but I hope to have it very soon, I'm getting twitchy and have bought something else by way of the next project...can't survive without something to keep me going!
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        Further progress made on the wiring with
the tail all wired up and the bulkhead connectors
Set up to receive the ends of all the lighting sub looms
Plus the umbilical to the switch panel.

Will use a modern flasher relay to drive the led
Indicators. Using two brake light switches , 
one for the foot brake and one for the uncoupled
Handbrake.

I’m using twin filament leds in the old headlamps
and using a repro column dip switch . As I’m on LEDs
Didn’t bother with any relays in these circuits.

I’ve fitted a battery cutoff switch on the
Upstand of the passenger seat. 

I’ve also fitted a period voltmeter  on the dash to 
Be able to check the battery condition.

So not as it left the factory at all! But hopefully should
Be safe and reliable with all soldered and heat shrunk sleeved wire ends and 
well made junction boxes, a mix of Lucas and old Bakelite GPO
Telephone boxes.

Hoping to start the engine up in February sometime.

Happy motoring

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border, 
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That all looks very neat Bill.

There are three little P (i think that is the correct name) clips along the inside of the chassis rail on my chassis which I assume are there to take the rear light wire, will you do similar?

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