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Clutch Levers Position - Clutch not releasing
#21
(17-08-2018, 01:07 PM)Eddamoo Wrote:
(16-08-2018, 10:27 PM)Hi Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: After you adjusted the grub screws did you grind the backs flush?

Hi Ruairidh - yes the grub screws are slightly in-set at the back so no chance of fouling there.  The thing does move, but you literally have to push with over 50kg of pressure to make the clutch move ~2mm

Have you fitted double clutch springs? If yes, I have run into the same symptoms. The cause in that particular case was that the inner springs became coil bound in situ almost immediately as demonstrated by compressing an inner and outer set together in the vice. Cure was to abandon those particular inners.
If you haven't fitted double springs then sorry, that's not it!

Regards,
Stuart

Hi Stuart, we haven't fitted double springs no, but thank you for your post.  We've tested the 'springiness' a vise and clamps and it doesn't feel excessive and we double checked they are correctly aligned.  Do you know if the Thrust Bearing is supposed to be permanently connected?


It almost feels like we're missing some kind of Lever to amplify the force of pushing the thrust bearing?

(17-08-2018, 12:25 PM)Charles Levien Wrote: More clutch problems. I have recently fitted new linings to Borg and Beck driven plate and restored the cover plate by fitting grub screws which have nicely restored the worn section where the toggle levers bear on.This seemed to be the answer but now, some 600 miles later, i am back struggling to get the car into gear without graunching.
The grub screws ( quarter inch bsf) were centre popped and filed flush at the back so that is not part of the answer.
Looks like I’m going to take the gearbox out again but before I do I should like to have some sort of plan ( mice and men etc)
Any suggestions?

Charles

Maybe a little overly simple but certainly worth a 5 minute check - Have you checked your pedal hasn't slipped on the joint on the gearbox (sorry dont know the proper name) to the point you can no longer get full travel?  I only say this as in the desparate attempt de-clutch ours, this did happen.
Thanks for that very good suggestion — Charles
(17-08-2018, 08:10 PM)stuartu Wrote: "Do you know if the Thrust Bearing is supposed to be permanently connected?"

If you are using a three speed thrust bearing in a carrier with slots for the toggle levers self evidently it is permanently engaged. If a four speed thrust bearing, no.

Which are you using?

Regards,
Stuart
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#22
(17-08-2018, 08:10 PM)stuartu Wrote: "Do you know if the Thrust Bearing is supposed to be permanently connected?"

If you are using a three speed thrust bearing in a carrier with slots for the toggle levers self evidently it is permanently engaged. If a four speed thrust bearing, no.

Which are you using?

Regards,
Stuart

Thanks Stuart. Ours is a 4 speed and the thrust bearing has no slots. Will make sure it's adjusted appropriately!
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#23
Hi All,

Quick update on this as we've now fixed the problem! It turns out the issue was that the mating surface between the flywheel and clutch which runs perpendicular to the flywheel face was the cause of the issue. The surfaces mate so closely that a tiny amount of surface corrosion had built up preventing the clutch action from moving. I presume this is because it's impossible for the clutch to move 100% straight with the springs and levers all being variables, so that slight bit of unevenness caused the clutch to seize and a very slight angle.

To fix the issue, we gave both surfaces a very good rub down to a shiny finish, and applied a very thin layer of firm grease to the face. The clutch instantly felt far easier to fit and the action is now perfectly free!

Thanks again for everyone's guidance! Hope this helps someone in the future.
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#24
(10-08-2018, 09:59 AM)peter burton Wrote: Super photo Terry, and possibly the best modification to any clutch - makes operation so much smoother, for a Seven that is!
Peter

A gentle caveat re this mod— I fitted 3/16 rod in conjunction with new toggle levers. Result, toggles too proud which I failed to notice before re fitting gearbox. Result — on tightening gearbox to bell housing the clutch was held permanently out. So everything had to come out again!
I have now removed the little pieces of rod and hope to refit the box today.
Perhaps the rod idea works best with worn levers?

Charles
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#25
Charles I think the problem is more to do with the shape of the new toggles which differs from originals
Location: Auckland NZ
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#26
(30-08-2018, 11:02 AM)Ian Williams Wrote: Charles I think the problem is more to do with the shape of the new toggles which differs from originals

I think you are right Ian. So are we establishing, — use the rods under original toggles but not under the new pattern ones? 

Charles
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#27
(30-08-2018, 11:31 AM)Charles Levien Wrote:
(30-08-2018, 11:02 AM)Ian Williams Wrote: Charles I think the problem is more to do with the shape of the new toggles which differs from originals

I think you are right Ian. So are we establishing, — use the rods under original toggles but not under the new pattern ones? 

Charles

You could use slightly smaller rods Charles, 5/32" instead if 3/16" and/or relieve the back of the levers slightly so they all sit evenly and at the correct height. I have successfully done the latter but usually fit grub screws instead of rollers when repairing worn clutches.
Location: Auckland NZ
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