Lining up chummy engine with its gearbox!

[Steve Jones]

I've had some early boxes without the master spline but all my others have had one. It's something I change if I get the chance and have the bits available.

Steve

[e-richard]

I remember many decades ago trying to accomplish this with the help of my father. I was only 18 and it was the first time I had ever heard him swear !!

We did find this tool extremely useful though: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Steel...irror+tool

[Derek Sheldon]

Get the big spline to TDc , engage gear, mark with a felt tip the out going flange, this way you always know where the spline is. Forgot to mention, have spline on fly wheel at TDC also.
Don’t get this problem with a Rosengart , they don’t have the large spline .

[Charles P]

And if you ever send a non blind input gear in as an exchange for a close ratio one make sure that you don't get one with a blind spline back in return.
Don't ask how I know......


Charles

[AustinWood]

Placing a piece of wood under both engine and gearbox then jacking till the flanges are parallel helps.
I suspect the master spline appeared when the handbrake anchorage went. ie Coupled brakes.

[Robert Leigh]

I have several three speed boxes with Master Splines Robert - they are a total pain!

I stand corrected; I had never seen one. Do you think the change came in 1932?

[Rick F]

I have a ball-change 3-speed box that came with a 1932 chassis. It has no blind spine.

[AustinWood]

I thought the blind spline came in with coupled brakes when the ratchet mounting on the gearbox was removed.

[Hugh Barnes]

I've always put a chalk mark on the flywheel at TDC having aligned the spline (at the top) to match the position of the gearbox. You can see if the flywheel moves and goes out of alignment, that way. I've also been of the habit of not persevering. If it doesn't go pretty much straight in, I pull everything back and re-align before trying again...

[John Mason]

I find it helpful if after lining up engine and gearbox to have a second pair of hands to slowly turn the engine on the starting handle iuntil the spline lines up and it all engages.I also do not have one of the clutch alignment tools ( I should really make one) Instead before the clutch is fully tightened I measure from a bell housing stud to the centre of the spigot. I do this from oppersite sides at 4 different studs and adjust until all measure the same. I then fully tighten the clutch.
John Mason