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What have you been up to today
#21
I spotted the detail mentioned above on some old seats at Beaulieu today, see below.


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#22
(02-09-2017, 01:22 PM)Chris KC Wrote:
(02-09-2017, 10:16 AM)Ian Williams Wrote: Chris, 
The D Moulding on the seats in my possession are constructed slightly differently to your description and were attached independently to the leather after the seat had been finished. The moulding is built up around a steel strip with pins at 2" intervals, first a strip of heavy canvas is folded in half and then in half again, the pin strip is then pushed through with a second strip of canvas below, this second strip is folded back over the top of the pin strip and finally a strip or Rexine folded back over the complete assy. Hopefully the following pictures will make my attempted description clear!


Pictures 1 & 2 show the Rexine cover striped back

Pictures 2 & 3 show the build up of folded canvas interior


Picture 5 shows the internal steel strip with pins spot welded to it.

That's interesting, mine are quite different. In the spirit of 'I'll show you mine if you show me yours' I'll attempt to post my first photo (sorry not as clear as yours Ian but the bead is staying in place for now).

When I recovered the seats on my '35 ARQ the construction of the D moulding was the type shown by Ian.

Bryan
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#23
Bryan, did you recreate the D moulding? Was yours in good enough condition to simply recover? In my case the metal strip is corroded through in places so can not be reused, I plan to make up a jig so that we can attempt to weld pins to a steel strip with Joss's spot welder, if successful I will replace the Hidem banding on my seats.
Location: Auckland NZ
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#24
Hi Ian,
Mine was too bad to reuse so used hidem.

Bryan
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#25
Today was our VAR club run, we visited the garages of two members to look at their cars, the first housed a nice top hat, a special under construction, 1925 Rover and several motorcycles, and the second a restored RM Saloon, a 1931 RM chassis under restoration and an Ulster rep.

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Location: Auckland NZ
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#26
Made a couple of nylon dummy bearings from kitchen chopping board to allow the easy dry build of my new engine.

   
(Edit: Image now right way up)

Charles
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#27
Good to see progress, Charles.

Something that interests me, I should know this,but....
Your crankcase has the "Austin" logo on the web between the engine mounts. I have one like that, too. I thought they were normally on the crankcase wall. Does anyone know the significance?
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#28
Charles,

when I assembled my Ulster engine back in the early 1990s I fitted HT cap screws (like the one in your photo) in place of the majority of block studs. There were a couple I couldn't replace because of casting restrictions. I modified the underside of the case to accept the bolt head face flat and screwed them up from the inside.

The car is unsupercharged but has taken near enough 100000 miles of hard use and abuse (especially early on) since then without issue. I would certainly consider this modification in again, if I was building a potentially spirited engine.
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#29
I have several like this Alan, at first I thought they were simply an early design (three all 1926) but then I got hold of and earlier case with the logo on the side wall so now confused! I imagine simply different foundries, but if someone knows better????
Location: Auckland NZ
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#30
I'm a fan of through bolting as well although it didn't stop it this time. I broke both a through bolt and the block.
Anyone know of a source of 1.5" x 5/16 BSF Unbrako socket cap screws? Last time I looked I could only get socket cap screws of unknown brand.

Charles
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