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Location: Cheshire
Hi - There is a lot of wisdom out there... here is one I picked up from a local club member years ago:
Go round and touch the brake drums after a run. They should be at the same temperature - at least, side to side. They are usually luke warm all round (it is flat round here). One too hot could mean binding, one stone cold suggests the brake is doing no work.
Regards,
Colin
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 555 Threads: 54
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
I like that. One of those things that's blooming obvious when you think about it, but you wouldn't necessarily think to do it.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 606 Threads: 18
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
05-05-2018, 10:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-05-2018, 10:01 PM by Dave Wortley.)
I have a friend with an Austin 12/4. He uses a laser digital thermometer for checking his brake temps. Works a treat and you don’t even have to bend down. Quite a few on Amazon for £10 and upwards.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,927 Threads: 160
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
You don't need to bend down to feel the brakes on a 12/4 anyway!
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finger on the drums IS a sort of digital thermometer too...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 982 Threads: 97
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Location: Cheshire
Given it is the wheel hub, it shouldn't be too hot - unless you have just come off the motorway or down a 3:1 hill - but, yes, apply digital thermometer cautiously! (Smoke would be another indicator is it hot - seen this when a brake is binding - in which case don't touch.)
Any more top tips out there to share?
Colin
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 606 Threads: 18
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
Another tip, or maybe because I am an obsessive. Go round and tighten the wheel nuts regularly,especially if you have had a wheel or brake drum off recently or painted the wheel. I have heard of unintentional 3 wheel A7’s on a few occasions and I have a brake drum with a large flat area on the outside diameter. Don’t ignore a sudden increase in engine oil pressure as it is probably a blocked oil jet.
A big safety issue is the steering arm of course. Remove from car every winter, clean up with rotary wire brush the areas at the internal corner of the bend and the spigot on the arm where it fits in the hub bore. Crack detect with a magnetic particle kit. Or better still purchase a beautifully designed brand new arm from a well known cherished supplier who has very kindly not increased his price for many years and then you can forget the testing procedure forever!
These are not new tips but worth repeating for new enthusiasts.
Cheers,
Dave
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,666 Threads: 46
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
06-05-2018, 07:04 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-05-2018, 07:05 PM by Ian Williams.)
Dave, I think you need to add to that not to over tighten the wheel nuts, the stud mounting is weak and I have seen a number pull out through over tightening.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 606 Threads: 18
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
True Ian they are quite weak. I have my own torque wrench ie. losing arm strength through getting old and weedy.
Cheers,
Dave.
