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+--- Thread: replacing oil screen gauze (/showthread.php?tid=3592)
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Derek Sheldon - 30-11-2019
You won’t get the 3D effect by clamping as you suggest. Don’t know if that would make a difference. If you have such a problem soldering it , send it to me , I’ll do it for you.
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Howard Wright - 30-11-2019
Hi All
Bakers flux is what I use but I have a quite big electric soldering iron which is quite adequate for soldering the gauze. I do belt and braces and use flux cored solder. I also solder all the edges which as Chris points out ensures no bits of gauze get loose.
For bigger jobs like repairs to my fuel tank (suitably purged) or oil and fuel pipe unions I find a heat gun invaluable.
Cheers
Howard
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - JonE - 04-12-2019
ok, so looking at the frame, which is the best side of the holes to join? i.e. is it perfectly acceptable to solder on the inner side of the frame so there is less perimeter of gauze/solder and a smaller gauze overall? Or does the gauze being physically held by the set screws offer some additional safety?
I noticed when disassembling that it is quite possible to leave the original solder positions where they are and just detach the old gauze. (Not so easy on the bit round the edge). Presumably this makes it easier to add a bit of solder to the existing positions and then add the gauze, rather than re-tinning everything?
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Chris KC - 04-12-2019
My soldering was not nearly that precise Jon - I just went all the way round trying to ensure it was stuck fast with no loose, fraying edge strands. I did not rely on screws to hold the mesh in the frame.
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Nick Salmon - 04-12-2019
Just a random thought - Could you ignore soldering and simply sandwich a gauze between two carrier frames?
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - JonE - 04-12-2019
Derek - sorry - missed your earlier post. Thankyou very much - but I've got to learn, haven't I...
I didn't quite get your point about the "3D effect" - presumably if the frame is 3D and the gauze was clamped between crankcase and frame, then it would still have the raised bit?
I can see the desire for getting rid of loose ends, but the original construction has all those punched holes, all with no solder around them - I would have thought they are likely to shed just through the actions of being tightened and loosened occasionally. This is my effort with the cooking torch to get rid of the old gauze, and as you can see it seems a bit of a no-brainer for where one should continue with the new attachment points...
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Derek Sheldon - 04-12-2019
Yes the old points are good enough to use but still thoroughly clean it. Spotting the hole areas will stop the mesh from fraying, either drill or punch the holes after. I also stop the edges from fraying by soldering the warp and weft ( up and down- left and right) on the very edges.
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