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+--- Thread: Float chamber (/showthread.php?tid=2684)
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RE: Float chamber - Reckless Rat - 22-04-2019
I would investigate the state of the fuel pump and the lines between the tank/pump and pump/carb.
RE: Float chamber - Peter Naulls - 22-04-2019
This has been puzzling me for some time too. My Ruby suffers from exactly this problem but there seems to be no logic as to when it will happen. I have a special which for some years had exactly the same carb/manifold setup but never exhibited the problem.
I don't understand how it can be a fuel line or pump issue - once the float bowl is full it shouldn't drain back down the line. Heat transfer seems more plausible.
Peter.
RE: Float chamber - David Stepney - 22-04-2019
Despite having rebuilt my carburettor recently, I have discovered that one problem that i hvae been unable to cure is the fact that the carb leaks from the beak when the engine is switched off. Conventional wisdom states that the float chamber level should be at the same level as the beak and that engine suction lifts the fuel from the beak into the airflow. However, if I arrange things so that the carb doesn't leak from the beak, the carburation has more flat spots that a threepenny bit!
The trusty Colourtune still shows it running rich, but the little car is doing mid thirties to the gallon which isn't too bad living in the mountains. I think I can live with priming the carb in the mornings.
RE: Float chamber - JonE - 23-04-2019
One can also see why people have moved over to period SUs when such 'defy logic' situations arise. Despite dealing with such situations being very instructional in Austin 7 problem solving, helping develop personal resiience and so on...
RE: Float chamber - dickie65 - 24-04-2019
Carb spacers usually made by hand. glue an old gasket onto suitable bit of material and drill and cut to suit.
Tufnol can be worked with woodworking tools.
Some plastics are fine to use with petrol.
Think plastic floats in modern carbs.