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+--- Thread: Fabric covered Austin 7’s (/showthread.php?tid=1385)
RE: Fabric covered Austin 7’s - Erich - 19-11-2018
A note about plywood and fabric. I bought some aircraft quality birch ply in 3/32 for the "door" cards on my Ulster Rep. I intend to varnish both sides to seal. The first coat thinned 30% to soak in. Traditional varnish, like Epiphanes has a lot on boiled linseed oil that hardens the wood. It takes a while to cure completely. As far as fabric, the description from R C Moss about the cotton used to make traditional Rexine rings true to me. I have restored wood and canvas Canadian canoes and once the cotton is stretched over the hull, it is necessary to torch it to burn off the fuzz. I would assume that, having rebuilt canoes, the technique to get the material stretched over a body tub on a car is similar. I use "come alongs"on the canoes, basically a block and tackle so that the fabric is tight and won't wrinkle in weather changes. If anyone needs advice on stretching, let me know. There are special upholstery tools that make it easier.
Erich in Seattle
RE: Fabric covered Austin 7’s - Hedd_Jones - 19-11-2018
(18-11-2018, 11:02 PM)AllAlloyCup Wrote: Hi Hedd
What fabric are you using for your
Cup , Hedd?
At least the Dacron is waterproof!
Of course the fact that the original plywood bodyskin
Was only 3 ply and 1.5mm thick did not help plus
it was fastened on , as was the Rexine, with
about 500 blued steel tacks. I’ve used stainless and
plated screws plus galvanised small nails and alloy rivets.
Hence my idea of using an Alloy skin and 1”
Ash framing ( instead of 3/4”) and thicker marine ply for
The bulkheads and floors.
Time will tell if motoring and the odd Trial will
shake it apart, but I doubt it as it’s very, very
strong and light.
Regards
Bill G
No immediate plans. Though I have the plywood. I dont fit in it.