Does anyone know of the whereabouts of UW 470. A friend’s father had the car many years ago and it would be nice to know if it’s a survivor. A photo shows it as a chummy with forward headlights and chrome ( nickel ) radiator, so perhaps 29/30 ish?
Any comments welcomed and many thanks.

Charles

This saloon suitable for restoration looks a bit dear to me at £4k, is it?  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375082878899?...R_SoltWBYw

Is it on Ruby 17 inch wheels? Will that improve the gearing or be too big a change?

And what looks to be wrong with the position of the back wheel here?

   

I'm in the process of assembling the speedometer which like my switch panel was is pieces in a tin when I got the car. I've restored all the bits but what has me puzzled is that in the tin were the remains of a O-Ring, rock hard and in bits.

So this is the question: is there supposed to be an O-Ring fitted to the speedometer somewhere such as under the glass or retainer ring? I can't see any evidence of one having been fitted anywhere:
   

Your assistance with this puzzle would be most appreciated. Thank you.
Cheers,
Stephen

The Dave Wilcox Memorial Trial will take place, as usual, on Friday 29th December at the Lockwell Activity Centre, Farnsfield (between Newark and Mansfield)

Just a reminder to get your entry in if you wish to compete.

Entry form and regs available at "www.pwa7c.co.uk"

Ah... I thought I had a rivet punch, but if I do, it's hiding well... not sure how I did a clutch lining and 4 brake shoes previously. 

I don't suppose anyone has a spare gathering dust? A7C list them but are currently OOS!

Always hopeful 
Nick

Been having a problem with the mounting of the offside Headlamp on Ruby for sometime now, it keeps drooping downward.
When I originally installed the Headlamps, I inserted a Nitrile washer between the wing and the chrome plated cup the headlamp sits in to protect the paintwork. On the nearside this has worked ok but on the offside, no mater how much I have tightened the brass nut underneath the wing the Headlamp always droops after running.
As can be seen the in the attached pic the hardness of the Nitrile rubber I used was insufficient and as a result has split and inspection revealed the extra tightening has damaged the paintwork beneath.
I am now considering using a harder rubber washer under the mounting, possibly with some fibre reinforcing or a PVC/Nylon or similar material, but has anyone used an alternate successful method for fixing the headlamp mount??
Both wings do vibrate when travelling along but I'm guessing this is normal with all variants of A7.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Cheers

Attached Files

  Ruby Headlamp mounting.pdf (Size: 343.18 KB / Downloads: 93)

Possibly a stupid question.....but I would feel even more stupid if I went ahead an b#£%×ed up the engine.
Is it OK to top up a sump containing  sae 30 oil from 'Classic' with sae 30 green 'Duckhams'

I have  DFL dynamo on my magneto engine and would like to know if its possible to fit a rev counter drive to this dynamo. I already have a mechanical rev counter but no way of driving it?
Also, am I correct in understanding that a modern rev counter which uses a cable round a spark plug lead wont work well with the magneto engine ? 
Could I connect the rev counter to the speedo drive on the 3 speed gearbox as having a rev counter is more useful that the speedo?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Now, where have I seen something like this before ???????

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8zFIu-2ok

A year ago it would have sold in a week... does this mean the cost of living and demand is down on such projects...

AUSTIN 7 TOP HAT SALOON 1930 nice tidy car to restore {chummy }

cheers
Matt