Hi all
Can anyone tell me where I can get brake lining rivets from please ?

I have had an email from Mike Tebbitt who writes:

I am in the throes of the advanced fettling of my poor 1930 Milliner saloon that has been off the road for the last thirty years!
In the course of removing the dirt and old paint form the transmission tunnel I have revealed the number as you can see in the photo.
I am intrigued by the letter ‘M’ that has also been stamped, could this have been done for those chassis intended for the Mulliner factory?\
I know that batches of chassis were sent to Mulliners with the floorpan on the chassis on top of which were a set of wings, bonnet, bulkhead etc.… or maybe the M is just a normal Longbridge thing !
Any thoughts?


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Can anyone help Mike?

To suit those going left, or right.
High-resolution copies can be had from: http://www.lathes.uk/Merry7.jpg  and  http://www.lathes.uk/Merry8.jpg

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I have been unable to find a listing for the handbrake ratchet pivot that screws into the rear of a 3 speed gearbox. Can anyone tell me the length of the pivot piece measured from the centre line of the hole that the ratchet is fastened to. The one that I have is very worn which results in the handbrake pawl housing touching the fabric uj. My car is  a 1927 model.

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My Ruby was placed on the naughty step yesterday, just going off to meet with the local A7 club members but just half a mile from home the ignition warning light came on, so immediately about turned and swopped cars.
As the old Sam Cook song goes "Don't know much about .......electrics" but I assumed it must be a dynamo or cut out problem.
Sorted through numerous old articles and forum links and carried out a few tests but could not find any continuity from the dynamo using bulbs and circuit testers and so removed the cover to investigate further and found what looks to my untrained eye a broken wire.
I realise that to some this may be blindingly obvious but for all the Sam Cook's of this world, me in particular, can someone more knowledgeable please confirm that this is the case.
If it's dead I'll need to replace it.
Cheers Denis S

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Probably way too late, and highly unlikely to carry any weight - but it made me feel better signing it.

https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/596189

In 1977 I took my early '34 RP apart. I'm now assembling it (good things take time) and I find that the accelerator control spindle rubs against the back of the motor. Looking at the parts list 1029A, it appears that I have all the correct control parts, with a cranked control spindle, however the cranked section is rubbing against the back of the motor. Looking at the problem it seems as if a straight spindle (somewhat as per the low frame car) would work better.  

I have to admit that the motor I have assembled is definitely not original, but it is at least a 2 bearing one of almost the correct vintage but made from a collection of parts.  Could it be that I have a later barrel on the motor that places its back face closer to the firewall?  The motor is correctly mounted, and the body went back on the chassis without difficulty.  I can't see any reason for the spindle to be mounted too far forward.

I am about to make a straight spindle, but maybe there is something I have done wrong.  Any advice welcome.

The new engine is a tight fit in the chassis frame at the front. The lip of the sump is hard up against  the inner flange of the chassis rails on both sides such that the engine will not sit down on its pedestal mounts leaving a gap of about 1/8 to 3/16" between the bottom of the pedestal and the rail top.  With this situation I can't remove the sump as it is too tightly wedged.

This prompts me to ask our experienced and seasoned Seven owners the following questions:

1 Are there any spacers or pads of any kind under the pedestal feet?  i was under the impression there are not supposed  to be any with the engine bolted directly to the frame.

2 The rear engine bolts  I got from one of our cherished suppliers are too long by about one inch. I'm wondering if they are not correct or is there a component missing under the frame rail that would account for the extra length ?

3 Where the sump is touching the inner flanges of the channel rails, the front suspension forging is riveted to the rails. This forging has a relief in its side as if made to clear the sump. Were any of the chassis frames ever cut away to match the profile of this forging as shown by the dotted yellow lines ? If so then if I ground the flange lip back to match this profile I would have the clearance i need. Have other members had to do this to get the engine to fit without interference ?

Thanks,
Stephen

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Well the engine is finally done and and has been placed in the chassis. I say "placed" because some minor issues regarding interference with the inner edges of the front frame have  made themselves known.

I will cover these issues in a separate post, but in the mean time I just wanted to show you the engine in all of its glory.

Cheers,
Stephen

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Good evening ,

New to the forum and Austin Seven ownership .

On inspection of the brakes on my 32' RN I found play in the front o/s pivot and cam . 

I have since replaced the pivot and brake cam bush but  since refitting the shoes and hub now have the situation where the brake lever operating the cam is not returning fully leaving the brakes partly on .


The cam was the original and was tight when tried in the new bush before fitting it to the hub . 

The cam was tight to fit but once home rotated freely .

Has someone else experienced this and how do I rectify it ? A case of working the lever back and fore or more to it ?

Thanks in advance ,

Gareth